Uncornered Market http://uncorneredmarket.com travel wide, live deep Sun, 28 Sep 2014 14:33:05 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.9.2 The World Doesn’t End With The Blue Skyhttp://uncorneredmarket.com/world-does-not-end-with-blue-sky/ http://uncorneredmarket.com/world-does-not-end-with-blue-sky/#comments Mon, 22 Sep 2014 12:17:16 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=19411 By Daniel Noll

“You can call me Airport,” Esupat said, laughing. She sat atop a Maasai hut with her legs crossed, straddling a half-built chimney. Small piles of bricks surrounded her; wet cement fell from her hands. She was dressed colorfully, ornamentally. But this is how she goes to work. When she smiles, it is wide. Wide from […]

The post The World Doesn’t End With The Blue Sky appeared first on Uncornered Market.

By Daniel Noll

Esupat with her Smiles and Pride - Tanzania
Esupat, a Maasai woman in northern Tanzania.

You can call me Airport,” Esupat said, laughing.

She sat atop a Maasai hut with her legs crossed, straddling a half-built chimney. Small piles of bricks surrounded her; wet cement fell from her hands.

She was dressed colorfully, ornamentally. But this is how she goes to work. When she smiles, it is wide. Wide from unforced practice. Wide with pride, wide with ease.

Her given name was Esupat, meaning “the one who cares for others.” She was considered a master among a team of Maasai women installing clean cookstoves in Maasai huts in the hills outside of the town of Arusha, Tanzania.

More importantly, however, she was known by everyone in her village as Airport, the woman who went through the sky and returned to tell the tale.

But before we tell that story, some background.

Accidental Women’s Empowerment

We recently visited the Arusha area to see in action a new Planeterra Foundation project, a partnership with Maasai Stoves and Solar Project. The project mechanism: G Adventures travelers who are on safari in Tanzania have a portion of their tour fees go towards buying and installing a clean cookstove for a family in a Maasai village. The travelers then have the opportunity to visit the village, see a stove installation, and learn more about why this simple stove design can be life-changing, especially for children.

Maasai Children Greet Us in the Village - Tanzania
The local Maasai village welcoming committee.

During our visit, we spent a day with a young Maasai man named Kisioki, the local project coordinator who had been with the program from its inception.

One of the things that makes our clean stoves project unique,” Kisioki said, “is that we empower women as a core component.

Why did this project choose to include women’s empowerment?” Audrey asked, leaning in.

Well, it was actually an accident,” Kisioki laughed.

We appreciated his honesty. And we figured there was a good story behind it.

Maasai Woman Dressed Up for Party - Tanzania
Mela, our Maasai host and one of the women invested in the project.

Several years earlier, Robert Lange, a professor from the United States, successfully designed a new type of “clean” cooking stove for a community on the Tanzanian island of Zanzibar. He was then invited to bring his concept to the Maasai villages in the Monduli district near Arusha, a jumping off point for either climbing Mount Kilimanjaro or going on safari.

But there were problems: the Zanzibari stove design didn’t fit the cooking needs of the Maasai community. It would need significant adjustments.

In the beginning, the Maasai village men together with the women were involved in discussions and community events about the stoves. But the men quickly lost interest; things moved too slowly for them.

The women remained steadfast, however. They cooperated with the organization’s engineers, testing and providing feedback on several stove design iterations until nearly 18 months later, the design of the clean cookstove – a stove that women in the village would actually use — was complete.

When talk turned to training, organizing and paying stove installation teams, the men wanted back in. The women held firm said no. Their rationale: We participated from the beginning and we ought to be the ones to manage the project and, more importantly, to earn our own money.

Maasai Women Clean Cookstove Installation Team - Tanzania
An installation team of Maasai women installs a new clean stove.

And so the Maasai Clean Stoves project remained one led primarily by women, with women’s empowerment as one of its de facto core components.

Training Women, Esupat Rising

When the project first got underway, each village was asked to recommend ten women to be trained in stove installation. A young woman named Esupat was among the first selected.

When women like Esupat received training, it provided them not only with practical skills, but also a source of income in a society where men traditionally earned the money. Esupat estimates that she has installed over three hundred stoves in the five years she has been involved with the project.

Installing a Clean Cookstove - Tanzania
Women work together to install a chimney, a core component of the stove.

For a bit of perspective, a clean stove costs around 95,000 Tsh ($56) to produce using local materials and labor. A family is then expected to contribute 25,000 Tsh ($15) to cover some costs. This contribution includes the fees paid to the local women-run installation teams. It also ensures that the owner is personally invested in her new stove.

Eventually, the project took off. This system gradually meant greater economic empowerment for the women involved and also a societal shift in perspective regarding the capabilities of women in the village.

But Wait, How Important Can a Clean Stove Be?

Earlier that day, we’d visited a village to see a new stove in action and compare it with a traditional one.

Stove in action?” you say with a yawn.

This is a stove that reduces 90% of the smoke released into a hut and uses only 40% of the firewood of a traditional stove. Sure, this sounds mundane. Numbers are, after all, a bore. And stoves aren’t very far behind.

Firsthand experience is a different matter, however.

In the village of Enguiki, Kisioki led us into a hut with a clean stove. A few bits of wood poked out from a circular opening as a fire crackled away to heat a pot of water on top. Mela, the owner of the hut, was a mother of nine children, four of whom still lived with her. She earned the money for the down payment on her stove through her work as one of the installation assistants.

Inside a Maasai Hut with a Clean Stove - Tanzania
Mela’s puppies need warmth, too.

I didn’t have to depend on my husband at all,” she noted with a bit of restrained pride. “Now my children have fewer health problems. The food even tastes better without all the smoke.

Sounds good. But how bad could the smoke from a traditional stove really be?

Kisioki took us to see Mela’s neighbor, Nagoyoneeni, just down the village path. She had a traditional stove. Before entering her home, I could see smoke seeping out from around a blackened door jamb.

Kisioki looked at me, “We only need to spend a few minutes in here. Just let me know when you can’t take it any more.

C’mon. How bad could it be? I mean, a family of eight lived there.

Awful. I couldn’t take it, almost instantly. From the moment I ducked my head to enter the hut, my eyes, nose and lungs were accosted by acrid smoke, making it difficult for me to see and breathe.

I blinked repeatedly to clear the soot from my eyes, to relieve the stinging feeling. Our host went about her daily business, making porridge for her children. Not wanting to be rude, I attempted to suppress a cough. It was impossible.

Maasai Hut With Traditional Three-Stone Stove - Tanzania
Smoke in hut with a traditional stove.

We sat on little wooden stools and had a conversation about the so-called three-stone fire, the traditional Maasai open pit stove with a pot placed on top. Nagoyoneeni explained that there were eight people, children mainly, living in her hut. She planned to save money from this year’s corn harvest to help buy a clean stove.

Though we were there only for a few minutes, I was certain I could feel my lungs blacken. Imagine what the smoke must do to the health of the newborn at Nagoyeneeni’s side, or the children shyly gathering around us.

Children peek out from inside one of the huts.

OK, Dan. I’m getting antsy. What does this have to do with a woman nicknamed “Aiport”?

Breaking the Blue Sky

As Esupat slapped concrete into the gaps of the bricks, I tried to get a handle on the pronunciation of her name.

E – su – pat. Is that right?” I asked.

Airport,” I heard one of the village women mumble behind me. Others laughed.

Ooh, a story!” I said.

You can call me Airport,” she laughed.

Airport? What’s this?” I asked.

After the project got traction in northern Tanzania, Esupat was invited to share her stove installation techniques with a group running a similar project in western Uganda.

The problem,” Kisioki said “was that nobody from the village had ever been on an airplane before.

Esupat jumped in, “The plane keeps going up and up. And I think, ‘Are we going to see God?’

Maasai belief is that the world ends with the blue sky and clouds, beyond which their god resides.

I imagined what this looked like to a person who perceived the sky as a sort of ceiling. I remembered my own first flight, as I clung to the hand rest wondering how this hulk of a thing was going to stay in the air. I didn’t fear the ceiling in the sky, but rather the force of gravity.

Esupat paused laying bricks, her joy at the memory of flying unabated, “I think we are very close to God. Are we going to see him? The plane keeps going up. I thought I was going to hit God and make him angry. And not come back.”

Esupat did not hit God, and she lived to tell the tale. She did something that no other villager had done, men included: she not only saw the airport, but she also flew in an airplane. Her social status was elevated.

When she returned to the village, she told everyone about it — with a smile each time, I’m certain.

Esupat tells her airplane story.

The Future

In the last five years Maasai women have installed over 1,000 stoves in villages around Arusha. When you consider that each hut is home to somewhere between seven and ten people, you can begin to appreciate the impact of this project. This is hopefully only the beginning.

The goal of the Planeterra Foundation and Maasai Stoves and Solar partnership is to provide a sustained, reliable source of funding for the local organization drawn from a portion of the tour fees of a steady supply of travelers coming through the area. In this way, together with the family investment contribution, each traveler helps purchase a clean stove. G Adventures travelers will also have the opportunity to visit one of the villages impacted, and have an experience that will hopefully be as eye-opening for them as it was for us.

Maybe they’ll have a chance to meet Esupat or another trail-blazer who will never forget her chance to know that the world doesn’t end with the blue sky.

If you are interested in getting involved and purchasing a clean cookstove for a Maasai family, please go to this Planeterra Foundation online donation page and select the Maasai Clean Cookstoves project under the drop down list.

Disclosure: Our visit to Tanzania to visit this Planterra Foundation project was provided by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.

The post The World Doesn’t End With The Blue Sky appeared first on Uncornered Market.

http://uncorneredmarket.com/world-does-not-end-with-blue-sky/feed/ 10
Aachen Cathedral: Just Look Up [360-Degree Panorama]http://uncorneredmarket.com/aachen-cathedral-panorama/ http://uncorneredmarket.com/aachen-cathedral-panorama/#comments Fri, 12 Sep 2014 12:46:56 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=19409 By Audrey Scott

Some cathedrals — with their fanciful gargoyles, detailed carvings and elaborate flourishes — are best admired for their exterior. For others, it’s all about appreciating what’s inside. What makes Aachen Cathedral so special for me, despite the beauty of its imposing Gothic exterior, are the mystical elements within. Even with all that I’d heard of […]

The post Aachen Cathedral: Just Look Up [360-Degree Panorama] appeared first on Uncornered Market.

By Audrey Scott

Some cathedrals — with their fanciful gargoyles, detailed carvings and elaborate flourishes — are best admired for their exterior. For others, it’s all about appreciating what’s inside.

What makes Aachen Cathedral so special for me, despite the beauty of its imposing Gothic exterior, are the mystical elements within.

Even with all that I’d heard of Aachen Cathedral prior to our visit, I still found myself surprised by the ornate mosaics that sprawled under its dome and a Byzantine design that hinted of the Near East. As we walked the chapel’s inner octagonal ring, I was struck by arches that reminded me of sites like the Moorish Great Mosque and Cathedral of Cordoba and Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia.

The core of the Aachen Cathedral — the Palatine Chapel — from which the panorama was taken dates back to the end of the 8th century. Although there have been a few renovations over the centuries, the essence of this design has its origins in the era of Emperor Charlemagne, as he commissioned the building of the chapel as an extension of his palace. More than 30 German kings were crowned in this cathedral between the 10th and 16th centuries. The cathedral also served as an important stop along the “Jacob’s Way” pilgrimage route that devotees walked from Germany to Santiago de Compostela, Spain in the Middle Ages.

The scale of history through the lens of this cathedral’s past: mind-boggling.

So when you visit the Aachen Cathedral, put your camera down for a moment and simply gaze up for a long, long time. Details in the mosaics and arches will emerge the longer you look. Maybe if you close your eyes you’ll imagine the stream of people — from kings to pilgrims — who shared that same space in the last 1,200 years. Although the world outside its walls has known great tumult and change, the space itself has remained a constant.

Open up the panorama below of the Palatine Chapel inside Aachen Cathedral to full screen and press the “up” arrow. Then you’ll see what I’m talking about when I say, “Look up!”

panorama directions

Our trip around the Rhineland of Germany was supported by the German National Tourism Board (GNTB). As always, the experiences and thoughts expressed here are our own.

The post Aachen Cathedral: Just Look Up [360-Degree Panorama] appeared first on Uncornered Market.

http://uncorneredmarket.com/aachen-cathedral-panorama/feed/ 14 50.7753448 6.0838866
How Travel Is The Classroomhttp://uncorneredmarket.com/experiential-learning-travel/ http://uncorneredmarket.com/experiential-learning-travel/#comments Tue, 02 Sep 2014 10:05:05 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=19285 By Daniel Noll

I recently came across an article about experiential learning that featured a list entitled 12 Things You Might Not Have Learned in the Classroom. The principles were adapted from a book entitled Weapons of Mass Instruction by John Taylor Gatto. The list was preceded by the phrase “Really educated people…” “Wow, that’s a pretty presumptuous […]

The post How Travel Is The Classroom appeared first on Uncornered Market.

By Daniel Noll

Dan in the Simien Mountains of Ethiopia
Travel: the ultimate experiential learning environment?

I recently came across an article about experiential learning that featured a list entitled 12 Things You Might Not Have Learned in the Classroom. The principles were adapted from a book entitled Weapons of Mass Instruction by John Taylor Gatto. The list was preceded by the phrase “Really educated people…

“Wow, that’s a pretty presumptuous lead,” I thought. Then I continued reading and found myself nodding in agreement through much of the list.

The beauty of the lessons and notions is that they are timeless and age-independent. They apply — from Millenials to Baby Boomers — to those, who whether they know it or not, are committed to lifelong learning. And they underscore an observation I have made in my own wanderings around the world: that travel can not only make us better, but it can also help us improve the world, too.

I felt compelled to add my own interpretation of how immersive travel offers the perfect experiential learning context.

Note: I’ve included Gatto’s original 12 entries in bold below, followed by my own thoughts.

1. Establish an individual set of values but recognize those of the surrounding community and of the various cultures of the world.

The phrase “finding our place in the world” suggests that we must first be grounded in who we are and the values we embrace in order to make room for the world and our position within it.

Audrey with Women Pilgrims - Paraw Bibi, Turkmenistan
Audrey is adopted by a group of women at Turkmenistan’s Paraw Bibi pilgrimage site.

The idea is not to be immovable or inflexible. Instead, understand that self-awareness better positions us to acknowledge and respect similarities and differences. This also suggests that you shouldn’t simply accept whatever opinions come your way. Instead, think critically, question heartily and consciously adopt new perspectives and practices as you test the ones you currently hold.

I’m reminded of what could have been a confrontation in Istanbul, Turkey.

2. Explore their own ancestry, culture, and place.

As we seek to better understand ourselves, it seems a natural progression that we will be better equipped to make room for others and their stories.

As for place and where we’ve come from, travel often helps us develop a deeper appreciation of all the things back home that we are tempted to take for granted. A change of place and context can often surface useful questions, stir productive (yet often uncomfortable) doubt, and help us carve out greater creativity and curiosity.

As for people and who we’ve come from, our stories are often more complicated than we imagine. Exploration of our own background can build empathy and also conspire to crowd out fear. In the absence of fear, we make room for more understanding.

I’m reminded of Audrey’s search for her grandfather’s childhood home in Qingdao, China.

3. Are comfortable being alone, yet understand dynamics between people and form healthy relationships.

Although some of our greatest achievements are those that we accomplish together, the place to gather the strength and perseverance to achieve these goals resides inside each of us.

Paradoxically, I find that being alone — do not confuse or conflate this with loneliness — is tremendously important to building confidence, clarity and security. With that foundation, we can better extend ourselves to others and appreciate our interdependent relationships with them.

I’m reminded of reaching out to build relationship bridges across cultures where traditional diplomacy doesn’t always work.

4. Accept mortality, knowing that every choice affects the generations to come.

The great irony of travel is that we often admire the cathedral, the bridges, the great works, the kingdoms and the vast networks and spans that took generations to build. But can our travels teach us what we, as individuals and as a society, need to do to build metaphorical cathedrals of our own?

What actions do we take today whose results will survive us, yet not be seen by us? This means taking action — and maybe even sacrificing — not because you will reap immediate benefit, but instead because you know the importance of your actions to future generations.

I’m reminded of our journey to Antarctica where we discussed the shrinking glaciers with an Antarctic scientist and veteran, and learned that our actions at home were doing more harm to the environment than the ships coursing through the region. John Oliver may take exception to that today.

5. Create new things and find new experiences.

Travel, particularly the sort that emphasizes engagement and participation in favor of consumption, can develop our creative and adaptive instincts. Even after all the places on earth are discovered, the possibility of authentic, meaningful experience is infinite — if we’re smart enough to recognize that it’s up to us to search ever more deeply for it.

To create more, to participate, to consume less. To engage fully, so that the mark of a place and its people are also left on us. This is the new travel.

This is not only the future of travel, but if we work for it, it will also be the future of our society.

I’m reminded of how travel helps us let go.

6. Think for themselves; observe, analyze, and discover truth without relying on the opinions of others.

If travel does nothing else, it provides endless opportunities to observe and experience for ourselves. That a place and its people can be so vastly different in person than we have been told by others — through news reports, opinions, travel articles — is the ultimate discovery.

Kurdish Truck Drivers at Road Side - Kermanshah, Iran
Meeting Kurdish truck drivers at a kebab truck stop in western Iran.

I travel so I can discover the world for what it is, not as it has been told to me. I do this for my own sake and vitality.

Opinions of others are often important, but forming and re-forming one’s own opinions through actual experience is where the greatest personal growth and progress is hidden — a transformation that displaces prejudice and preconceived notions. Travel continually reaffirms this.

I’m reminded of the main reason why we travel and how we find places so vastly different than the prevailing narrative on the news.

7. Favor love, curiosity, reverence, and empathy rather than material wealth.

Before studies told us that buying experiences provide more sustained happiness than buying products, our bodies and minds had been telling us the same thing. Material accumulation makes us feel heavy, it’s a quick hit; experiences on the other hand are light and have proven longevity.

But as we pursue experiences, maybe we can ask ourselves: “Why we do it? To what end?” I’d like to think that if we aim to draw the most from the world and our travel experiences in it, maybe we’ll do so in the pursuit of mutual understanding and respect. Not only will that make the world a better place, but it will make each of feel better and more connected, too.

I’m reminded of our realization of the value of experiences over stuff.

8. Choose a vocation that contributes to the common good.

The greatest art of all is the ability to enrich oneself while simultaneously enriching the lives of others. When one’s riches arrive entirely at the expense of others, I begin to wonder how bright that person is after all.

Travel the world, see the rich and the poor, and this will be laid bare. Then ask: “What is my purpose? Where can I contribute?”

I’m reminded of using our storytelling and photography skills to help microfinance organizations tell their story through images and vignettes to help raise awareness and funds.

9. Enjoy a variety of new places and experiences, but identify and cherish a place to call home.

Some of us have been fortunate to have had the opportunity to travel and float almost ad infinitum, like lifetime nomads. Social networks have grown into our sense of what we call home. But we’re still human, of the flesh. And we need connection and touch. This means places — and more importantly, people — that are ours, that we can return to after our journey. They are “home” to us.

Open spaces, long horizon. A gaze, a beer, a sunset. A space 100 acres larger than New York's Central Park. Old Tempelhof Airport. A Berlin silhouette.
Tempelhof Park in Berlin, one of our favorite places in the city we now call home.

Home is also an important place for reflection, to take pause to absorb all that you have experienced and digest all that you have learned on your journey.

I’m reminded of a discussion about what “home” really means by way of a visit back to a former home of ours: Prague, Czech Republic.

10. Express their own voice with confidence.

Confidence is about finding our voice and allowing it to co-exist with the voice — disagreement included — of others.

When we’ve done that, I suspect we’ve really found ourselves.

I’m reminded of a twist on voice and purpose.

11. Add value to every encounter and every group of which they are a part.

Every person and place, every handshake and interaction can make a difference, however small. Travel teaches us this continuously, that we are all connected to and inherently invested in something much bigger than ourselves. Maybe that lends to us a sense that we should give back to the world around us and view that motivation less as a burden and more as an opportunity.

I’m reminded of a story that demonstrates we are all more connected than we think and the power of citizen diplomacy.

12. Always ask: “Who am I? Where are my limits? What are my possibilities?”

Travel can be the mirror to aid us in understanding ourselves and our potential. It helps us reframe who we are and what we are capable of doing. Travel experiences, by placing us in contexts that are unfamiliar and unknown, regularly press our boundaries and limits. They often force us to face our fears and appreciate the permanence of uncertainty.

This exercise at once helps us find our feet, and stretch our sense of possibility.

Step by Step to Thorong La Pass - Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
Facing up to the physical and emotional challenges to cross Thorong La Pass, Nepal.

I’m not suggesting the next time you have an identity crisis (I’ve had a few), that you hop a plane. Use your traveler’s eyes to explore your city in a new way. You can also reflect on your previous travel impressions and use them as creative fuel to define what is possible and which steps you will take to get there.

I’m reminded of climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, just as much a mental challenge as a physical one.

This is not only about travel. This is about life. Seek it. Find it. Experience it. And most importantly, go beyond the cliche to figure out what’s really underneath all that inspiration. And don’t be afraid to have your ideas and perceptions challenged along the way.

This is how we become “really educated people.”

The post How Travel Is The Classroom appeared first on Uncornered Market.

http://uncorneredmarket.com/experiential-learning-travel/feed/ 15
Next Up: From Mines to Wines, Germany’s Rhinelandhttp://uncorneredmarket.com/rhineland-travel-germany/ http://uncorneredmarket.com/rhineland-travel-germany/#comments Fri, 29 Aug 2014 16:42:02 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=19340 By Audrey Scott

As we set off for Germany’s Rhineland this weekend, I think back to an exchange I had with a tourist from Stuttgart the other night. “It’s been really fun visiting Berlin this week. It’s like traveling to a different country from Germany,” he said. We laughed. We understood. This is often what we tell people […]

The post Next Up: From Mines to Wines, Germany’s Rhineland appeared first on Uncornered Market.

By Audrey Scott

As we set off for Germany’s Rhineland this weekend, I think back to an exchange I had with a tourist from Stuttgart the other night.

“It’s been really fun visiting Berlin this week. It’s like traveling to a different country from Germany,” he said.

We laughed. We understood. This is often what we tell people when they ask us how we like living in Germany. We’ve found that we picked up a bit of the Berliner habit of forgetting that there’s a country to explore outside of the city limits of its capital.

It’s time to do a little something about that.

After two months of enjoying summer in Berlin, we’re heading out by train to Germany this weekend. We’ll be exploring Germany’s Rhineland — a new part of the country (for us). Our trip will include places like Essen, Aachen, Cologne and the Upper Middle Rhine Valley.

Here’s where we’re going and what we’ll be up to.


I never would have thought to visit an old coal mining facility, but my interest in Zollverein Coal Mine was piqued recently when Dan mentioned the name in connection with a novel he’d read entitled “All Light We Cannot See.” Beginning on the eve of World War II, the novel tells the story of a German boy — whose father died as a miner in Zollverein — and a French girl, both trying to cope with the horrors of war.

Zollverein Coal Mine at night.

In addition to once being a coal mine, Zollverein is now known for its Modern Movement in architecture — something we know admittedly little about, but whose appearance we are often visually drawn to on bicycle rides around Berlin.

So we’re looking forward to understanding the historical, industrial, and architectural layers that make up UNESCO-protected Zollverein and learning more about the Ruhr region.


Aside from likely being a candidate for a spherical panorama of its interior, the 1,200-year-old Aachen Cathedral has been on our Germany sights shortlist, as it’s been recommended so often by others.

We’re looking forward to finally seeing this interior for ourselves.

aachen Cathedral
Interior of Aachen Cathedral.

Cologne / Köln

Years ago when I lived in Estonia as a Peace Corps Volunteer, my Estonian friend, Sirje, showed me her faded photographs of the Cologne Cathedral. I’ll never forget it. Visiting Cologne was among her first travels outside of what was the Soviet Union; she described her impressions of being in the “West” with all the fancy cars and endless shopping options. For me, as an American, the photo of the Cologne Cathedral looked like something straight of a fairytale with its towers and Gothic architecture. It will have taken fifteen years for me to finally see the Cologne Cathedral for myself…and share with Sirje an updated photo.

Cologne Cathedral
Cologne Cathedral at Night. Wow.

Another Cologne icon that we’re interested in getting to know a bit better is Kölsch, a local style of beer that is light in color and is only served in thin, tall glasses (in fact, we hear that drinking Kölsch in a beer stein is considered sacrilege). This style of brew does not travel well, so it’s necessary to go to the source — or to the Berlin Beer Festival — to enjoy it.

Given all that we’re heard about Kölsch, we imagine that it may someday achieve its own UNESCO culinary status.

If you have any recommended places to drink Kölsch in Cologne please let us know!


This is where the road trip portion of our Rhineland travels begin. We’ll pick up a rental car in Cologne and use it to explore the castles of Augustusburg and Falkenlust near the town of Brühl before heading further into the Rhine Valley. I’ll have an opportunity to exercise my newly acquired German driver’s license on both the autobahn and tiny village roads. Dan will have an opportunity to exercise his fatalism, as he’s the one who usually does the driving in our family.

He’s frankly terrified by the thought. This should be fun.

Augustusburg Castle
The Augustusburg Castle gardens in bloom.

Upper Middle Rhine Valley

As some of you may remember, we also never pass up an opportunity to taste and learn more about wine. So it won’t surprise you when we confess that we timed this journey to coincide with the Bingen Wine Festival, taking place in the first week of September. This segment of the Rhine Valley is smack in the middle of four German wine-growing regions: Rheinessen, Nahe, Rheingau and Middle Rhine. Although we have learned a bit about German wines over the years, we looking forward to a deeper dive by dropping in on the wine festival and by visiting a few wineries along the way.

This particular segment of the Rhine River has been a water trading route for over two thousand years, which is why it is dotted with castles across its various clifftops. Add to that its steep terraced vineyards that appear to fall right into the river and its almost too-quaint-to-be-true collection of villages that trace the river’s edge, and it’s no surprise that our parents have had nothing but great things to say about the region after their visits many years ago. My mother even made me promise to wave to the Loreley rock for her.

Upper Middle Rhine Valley
Marksburg Castle in the Upper Middle Rhine Valley. What a view.

Although we’ll have a rental car with us, we’ll leave it behind for a spell to take a boat ride or two and to explore by bicycle the surrounding hills, from Bingen to Rüdesheim, Lorch, Bacharach, Koblenz and all spots in-between.

UNESCO World Heritage Sites as Itinerary Anchors

We confess, we have a mixed relationship with UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

On the one hand, we find that tourists can sometimes approach them as places to “consume” or check off a box as if collecting, rather than experiencing. We find this approach can lend a little bit of tunnel vision to one’s travels — enabling visitors to ignore companion experiences or nearby areas that might help to round out their trip.

On the other hand, UNESCO sites have often pushed us to visit destinations we otherwise wouldn’t — often in the middle of nowhere — just because we’re curious about what makes that a place so special to have earned it official World Heritage status. It’s this curiosity that led us to UNESCO sites such as the Jesuit Ruins in Paraguay, Paharpur Buddhist Monastery in Bangladesh, Gobustan in Azerbaijan (and had to hitchhike back), or the Valley of the Whales (Wadi Al Hitan) in Egypt. We were even married at a UNESCO site in Italy. (Sadly, our fateful day had nothing to do with its earning UNESCO status.)

In this way, UNESCO sites can serve as itinerary anchors and can highlight an aspect of history or culture that a visitor would have otherwise never heard about (e.g., that Tantric Buddhism likely got its start in Bangladesh – who knew?!).

You may have have noticed that we’re anchoring our Germany trip around several of Germany’s UNESCO sites, taking us from a coal mine to cathedrals to castles to wineries along the Rhine Valley. And as much as we’re looking forward to seeing these sites, we’re just as excited for all the experiences that will happen in and around them — including getting lost.

How can you help with our trip?

If you have recommendations for places to eat and drink in Essen, Aachen, Cologne, and in and around the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, please send them our way! We’re looking forward to balancing out our historical and cultural learning with a bit of the culinary and vinicultural variety.

Follow along with our Germany adventures

We will share all that we see and experience during the trip on our various social media channels – Instagram, Twitter, Facebook and Google Plus – using the hashtag #welterbegermany.

Feel free to engage with us there and share your own tips as we explore this new-to-us part of Germany!

Photo Credit: All photos above are courtesy of the German National Tourism Board.

This trip is supported by the German National Tourism Board (GNTB). As always, the opinions expressed here are our own.

The post Next Up: From Mines to Wines, Germany’s Rhineland appeared first on Uncornered Market.

http://uncorneredmarket.com/rhineland-travel-germany/feed/ 21
Gorilla Trekking in Uganda: A Beginner’s Guidehttp://uncorneredmarket.com/gorilla-trekking-uganda/ http://uncorneredmarket.com/gorilla-trekking-uganda/#comments Mon, 18 Aug 2014 12:30:13 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=19232 By Daniel Noll

I followed just behind our lead mountain gorilla tracker. In the hush of the moment under the canopy, I remembered our guide’s advice earlier that morning: “On your way to the gorillas, don’t forget to enjoy the sound of the jungle. There’s nothing like it.” My focus had been on climbing through the tendrils, on […]

The post Gorilla Trekking in Uganda: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Uncornered Market.

By Daniel Noll

I followed just behind our lead mountain gorilla tracker. In the hush of the moment under the canopy, I remembered our guide’s advice earlier that morning: “On your way to the gorillas, don’t forget to enjoy the sound of the jungle. There’s nothing like it.”

My focus had been on climbing through the tendrils, on getting there. I could feel the heat around me, the sound of swarms of bugs above my head.

Then our tracker pivoted and pointed my attention to the right, just past the thickness from which we’d emerged and into the clearing.

Suddenly, it was just me and a mountain gorilla.

Pensive Gorilla - Bwindi National Park, Uganda
Our first encounter with a mountain gorilla.

His name was Kakono, the silverback leader of the Mishaya family we’d managed to find. He sat just a few meters away, only a group of leaves and the floor of the jungle between us. I stared for a few moments, following his every slow, deliberate movement. Then I came to and realized I might want to capture the moment in pixels. A photo may be worth a 1000 words — I don’t know — but this moment seemed to require a few thousand more.

He had massive hands, blocky, like a catcher’s mitt. Inky black and leathery, too, with rough patches and texture. “A manicure,” I thought.

Kakono got up. He was huge — shockingly so. Fluid and graceful. Majestic and peaceful. He knew no hurry. The deliberate nature of his movements seemed almost oddly incongruous with his size.

I tasted a bit of fear – fear I now know was misplaced. Stereotypes of gorillas are so entirely off the mark. All those images we’re fed – King Kong, American Tourister luggage commercials and all the false clichés of violent Hollywood-styled apes — faded into the buzz of the jungle.

Despite what their size might suggest, mountain gorillas are vegetarian. Take that when you imagine they might devour you. Besides, they are peaceful, almost zen-like in a way we humans might never be able to comprehend. Maybe that’s what sitting and eating in contemplation does to you. That, and give you a big belly.

A connection, they look like us in another age, with more hair, more wrinkles.

A look into their eyes. Simple wonder. What do they think? What do they see? If they could, perhaps they might ask, “What do you people with those things around your necks find so interesting about me? Please, get a life.”

This is our world, together. But we were clearly in theirs.

For many travelers to Uganda, gorilla trekking is the anchor activity. To encounter mountain gorillas not only carries some expense, but it also takes planning and preparation to make the most of your outing.

In this beginner’s guide we share all you need to know to prepare for and get the most out of you gorilla trekking experience in Uganda.

Uganda’s Mountain Gorillas

Approximately 900 mountain gorillas live in the shared-border forests that extend into Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). After decades of decline due to poachers, civil war and diminishing forests, gorilla populations have begun to pick up in the last couple of years. In some respects, the growth of gorilla tourism may have helped protect these animals as the government receives funding for conservation and sees the economic benefit of protecting the animals and the national parks that serve as their homes.

Today, around 400 gorillas call the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park their home. Of these, nine gorillas families (each family usually consists of 10-15 members) have been habituated, meaning that although they are still wild they have become accustomed to humans and are unlikely to attack.

Gorilla Teenager with Belly - Bwindi National Park, Uganda
Teenage male, ready with a big belly for when he becomes a silverback leader.

When to go gorilla trekking

It is possible to go gorilla trekking all year round, but you may face rain or more crowds during certain times of year. The high season is June-September and December-February when Uganda has its dry(er) season and Europeans have their holidays. Even during this time you may experience rain in the forest. Trekking permits will be a bit pricier and more in demand during these times.

Low season is considered March-May or October-November rainy seasons. When trekking during this time you may experience more rain in the forest, making for a muddier, more slippery climb. However, during this time gorillas may be more likely to hang out in the low lands since food is abundant during the rainy season and they don’t need to search long and wide for meals. This means that your treks into the forest to find them will be shorter, often under two hours.

Our Gorilla Trekking Guide Waits for Information - Bwindi National Park, Uganda
Our gorilla trekking guide waits for information from trackers on the location of the gorilla family.

We went in May and lucked out with our weather. It rained the day before and the day after, but on the day of our trek it was sunshine the whole time we were in the forest and with the gorillas. For cost and crowds, we’d recommend trekking in either the off-season or shoulder season.

Obtaining a Gorilla Trekking Permit

Gorilla trekking permits are a hefty expense at $600 per person for most of the year, with April and May at $350 per person (2014 prices). The maximum number of visitors per day is 72, divided into groups of 8 persons maximum. Each group visits a different habituated gorilla family. The permit assigns you to a gorilla family and allows you to spend one hour with the family once your group finds them.

Our gorilla trekking permit and organization was included as part of our G Adventures tour in Uganda. This means that they took care of the paperwork as well as transport to and from our accommodation to the park. Each gorilla family is in a different area of the park, so your accommodation should be coordinated with the park entry point for that particular family. All we needed to do was show up and be prepared. Made for a very stress-free experience.

Even if you travel independently, it makes sense to find a local tour operator to help you secure your trekking permit and arrange transport, accommodation and other logistical support. The reality is that Ugandan tour operators purchase the majority of trekking permits so it’s very difficult for individuals to buy them directly from the National Park. If you want to go during the high season (June-September) you’ll need to organize everything months in advance to be sure you can get a permit.

And while there are no guarantees of mountain gorilla sightings when you set off, the tracking procedures in place at Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park virtually ensure you an unforgettable encounter.

Gear: What to Bring With You Gorilla Trekking

Everyone’s gorilla trekking experience will be different depending upon the weather, the depth of your forest hike, where the gorillas are hanging out, and other factors. It’s important to be prepared for anything so you can focus your time on enjoying your jungle walk and time spent with the gorillas, rather than being worried about your gear.

Gorilla Trekking, Just Before the Forest - Bwindi National Park, Uganda
Our group lines up before heading into the forest.

1. What to wear when gorilla trekking

Note: It’s likely that you’ll be trekking through mud and covered in dirt by the end of your trek so consider bringing clothes that you won’t mind ruining.

  • Trekking pants. If you have waterproof pants with you, carry these in your backpack in case of rain. You will also be recommended to tuck your pant legs into your socks to prevent nasty creatures from crawling up your legs.
  • T-shirt and long-sleeved shirt. We recommend a t-shirt with a light long-sleeved shirt over top to protect you against sun exposure and bugs (of which there are A LOT in the forest and jungle).
  • Waterproof jacket. Keep this handy, especially in the wet season.
  • Fleece or light jacket. The park is above 2,000 meters (6,000 feet). It’s unlikely that you will be cold when trekking in the humid forest, but you may become chilled waiting around for word of the gorillas’ location or when stopping for lunch.
  • Trekking shoes. For climbing hills, good traction on your shoes is essential. Even better if your trekking shoes are somewhat water-resistant.
  • Hat. Sun protection when trekking outside the forest.

2) Food and Water

  • Two liters of water per person. While this may sound like a lot, this amount is recommended in case it’s a long, hot hike. Better to have too much water than too little.
  • Lunch and snacks. Bring snacks that you can munch on along the way to keep your blood sugar and energy high before lunch, which will usually consist of a sandwich and fruit. Depending on how long it takes your group to find the gorilla family, it can sometimes be a while before you eat lunch.

3) Other useful gear for your gorilla trek

  • Small backpack. Be sure this is comfortable, as you’ll need to carry it for hours en route to and inside the jungle.
  • Walking stick. Do not worry about bringing your own. Wooden sticks are available to borrow at the park entrance.
  • Cameras and rain protection. It might be a bit overboard to carry a dry sack for your camera (although we did), but do carry a plastic bag or similar water resisting protection to keep your camera protected in case of rain.
  • Sunscreen and bug spray. Travel staples in this part of the world.

Note: If you’d prefer to enjoy your trek unencumbered, you can hire a porter to carry your small bag and assist you up hills and through the challenging parts of the forest. Just tell your guide that you’re interested in hiring a porter and he’ll find one for you at the National Park entrance. The fee is $15 per day (May 2014 prices).

What to Expect on the Gorilla Trekking Day

Your Team: Guides, Scouts, Trackers

Don’t forget to bring your passport with you as officials at the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park office will need to verify your trekking permit against your identification. After a quick briefing on safety measures and what to expect during the day, you will be assigned to a group of a maximum of 8 people for your gorilla family search and visit.

Each group consists of a main guide and two scouts who carry AK-47 guns and walk before and after the group. We were told that the reason for armed scouts is for protection in the forest against wild elephants or angry, unhabituated gorillas. The scouts are trained to fire shots into the air first in order to scare away the animals. We’ve never heard of anyone coming across these wild animals, but we understand that the policy of the National Park is to be safe rather than sorry.

Gorilla Trekking Guide, Scouts and Trackers - Bwindi, Uganda
Our gorilla trekking team of guides, scouts, trackers and a porter.

Your group will also have a pair of trackers who will have been sent out in the early morning (prior to your arrival in the park) to find the location of your specific gorilla family and to assess where they may be headed. Trackers communicate the gorilla’s movements to the guide so that he can decide on the best approach to meet the gorilla family.

Trekking to Find the Gorillas

The length of your overall experience and the amount of time it will take to actually meet your gorilla family is said to vary widely. It may take as little as 30 minutes to find your family and as long as five to six hours. The day we went, we spent about an hour looking for the gorillas while another group spent three hours searching in thick jungle.

The forest is lush, humid and damp and there are no discernible trekking paths. The terrain is full of hills and steep slopes where you will be required to pull yourself up steep jungle grades by grasping onto branches, plant roots, bushes and more. Follow the lead of the guide as to the best path and form to take.

Gorilla Trekking, Climbing Through Forest - Bwindi National Park, Uganda
Climbing hills in the lush Ugandan forest.

If you need a break, let your guide know. The worst thing that can happen is if you overexert yourself or don’t hydrate enough and are forced to leave the park before you find the gorillas.

Quality Time with the Gorillas

Once your group finds the gorilla family the clock starts: you have an hour to spend with them.

Now is when you want to stay quiet, move slowly and avoid sudden movements. I found that just sitting, enjoying being in the gorillas’ presence was the best experience.

Up Close with Kakono, the Silverback Male Gorilla of the Mishaya Group - Bwindi National Park, Uganda
Joining the mountain gorillas for their breakfast feast.

It’s not a problem to look a gorilla in the eye, but if he begins charging you, hold your ground but lower your eyes to indicate that you do not want a confrontation. Photos and videos are fine, but no flash.

Ideally, you’ve found several gorillas together in a clearing on the ground. This provides you easy visibility and you can just sit and observe. In other situations the gorillas are up and moving around — in the trees, behind bushes, or walking around through dense brush. Follow the lead of the trackers and guides and stay close as they move around to find other gorillas.

The trackers will often clear the brush with their machete so you can get a clearer and closer look at the gorillas. It is incredible how graceful and peaceful these animals are, especially considering their incredible size. You’ll be amazed when you see the silverbacks (mature males) get up and move around.

Huge Silverback (Male) Gorilla from Behind - Bwindi National Park, Uganda
Gorilla moon. Amazed at the sheer size and bulk of the silverback mountain gorilla.

Sustainability, Respect for the Gorillas

Gorilla trekking permits exist to limit the number of visitors and thereby reduce the stress on the gorillas. Our individual behaviors can also help to reduce the anxiety that our presence may effect, too. Give the gorillas the space they deserve.

Do not aggressively pursue them if it seems as though they are becoming annoyed and constantly moving to higher branches or behind bushes. Some of the most entertaining actions and displays (e.g., peeing or pooing on you from a tree, or chest beating) are usually an indication that a gorilla feels threatened. Good thing is, those displays are also a gorilla’s way of communicating “Keep your distance. I’d like to avoid resolving this with a fight.

Some travelers may ask: Are mountain gorilla encounters sustainable and ultimately beneficial to the mountain gorillas? On one hand, the visits are clearly an invasion. Imagine a bunch of photographers coming into your home at approximately the same time every day. You might tire of it, no?

At the same time, to the extent that gorilla treks provide motivation to protect the gorillas and their habitat from encroaching land development and farms, it’s not only worthwhile — it may be the only thing keeping human beings from driving to extinction what few mountain gorillas remain.

With that in mind, respect the gorillas as the wild yet sentient creatures that they are.

Kakona, the Silverback Gorilla - Bwindi National Park, Uganda
Up close and personal with Kakono.

As you stare into the eyes of a mountain gorilla you’ll likely feel a connection, one unlike you’ve ever experienced before. A connection of peering into the eyes of an exotic creature that looks and acts quite a bit like we humans do.

It’s a difficult feeling to articulate. We hope that this guide helps you experience it for yourself one day.

Disclosure: Our tour in Uganda was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.

Our experiences above were from the G Adventures Uganda & Gorillas Overland Tour. If you plan to book this or another tour with G Adventures, please consider starting the process by clicking on the ad below. The price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission. Thank you!

Africa Tours with G Adventures

The post Gorilla Trekking in Uganda: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Uncornered Market.

http://uncorneredmarket.com/gorilla-trekking-uganda/feed/ 30 -1.0806000 29.6613998
Travel to Rwanda: First Impressionshttp://uncorneredmarket.com/rwanda-travel/ http://uncorneredmarket.com/rwanda-travel/#comments Fri, 08 Aug 2014 07:52:27 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=19211 By Audrey Scott

Rwanda.  A country where the first thing that comes to mind when people hear the name: the horrific, tragic genocide of twenty years ago. When we mentioned that we were looking forward to visiting Rwanda, we weren’t entirely surprised by the confused looks and cocked heads: “Why?” We weren’t headed to see the mountain gorillas as most people visiting Rwanda […]

The post Travel to Rwanda: First Impressions appeared first on Uncornered Market.

By Audrey Scott

Fishing Boats on Lake Kivu - Kibuye, Rwanda
Another day comes to a close on Lake Kivu, Rwanda.

Rwanda.  A country where the first thing that comes to mind when people hear the name: the horrific, tragic genocide of twenty years ago. When we mentioned that we were looking forward to visiting Rwanda, we weren’t entirely surprised by the confused looks and cocked heads: “Why?

We weren’t headed to see the mountain gorillas as most people visiting Rwanda purely for tourism might do. We’d read about trekking, volcanoes and lakes, but mainly we were curious and wanted to see the country for ourselves. Atrocities should not be forgotten, but we know that people and places are resilient and they evolve, that life moves on. As interested as we were to learn more about the Rwandan genocide and its causes, our focus was to understand better Rwanda’s present and the future it hopes to build.

So what did we find? What surprised us about Rwanda? Read on.

If you’re looking for travel tips and recommendations for independent budget travel in Rwanda skip ahead to: Rwanda Travel Tips. If you want more photos, you can find our Rwandan photo gallery here.

1) Rwanda = The Switzerland of Africa?

The “Singapore of Africa” or “Switzerland of Africa.” Whichever analogy you choose, the meaning is clear: order, cleanliness, calm, rules enforced. To a surprising degree.

We arrived in Rwanda after a long bus ride from Kampala, Uganda. Even at the border, we could sense a different feeling crossing into Rwanda – greater calm, slower movement. Streets were wide and clean, with little to no trash to be found. Motorcycle taxi drivers wore helmets and safety vests. Honking was almost non-existent. There was none of the frenzy of humanity and movement we’d become accustomed to in Kampala. This order isn’t reserved for cities, either. As we trekked through villages in Musanze district, we found front yard gardens and paths there were also well maintained.

This is an image of Rwanda vastly different than most people imagine — with genocide, chaos, and lawlessness still in mind. After speaking to both locals and expats who had lived there for a while, the emphasis on order began to make sense. To rebuild a country after an atrocity like the genocide, where 100 days in the spring of 1994 left more than one million Rwandans dead (approximately 14% of the population), a society that hoped to recover at all might need a sense of security and stability. In some cases, order and rules can help achieve this.

With stability –- and an eye to human rights as a basis of discourse — reconciliation and rebuilding can occur.

2) Ubiquitous Rwandan genocide reminders

Our visit this year to Rwanda coincided with the 20th anniversary of the Rwandan genocide. The calendar year is packed with events for remembrance, Kwibuka in the local language of Kinyarwanda.

Throughout the country, we found memorial signs that read Kwibuka 20: Remember, Unite, Renew.  Signs were everywhere, in big towns and small, serving as a reminder that every village and every person was affected by the genocide.

We visited the Genocide Memorial in Kigali to learn more about the conditions that led up to an environment where such systematic killing could occur. It very well done and provides the historical and socio-economic background of the Hutus and Tutsis, as well as the propaganda and psychological games that were used to motivate ordinary people to kill their neighbors. The narrative is also quite damning of the role of the Belgian colonial powers in actively fomenting distrust between Hutus and Tutsis. It shines a light also on the fact that the international community turned a blind eye to the events even as United Nations officials working in Rwanda called for help. Although some may argue the exact figures, it’s estimated that as few as 4,000 U.N. troops sent in at the beginning could have prevented the slaughter that unfolded over the next 100 days.  

All that said, the memorial’s message is as even and even-handed as one could imagine emerging in the wake of such an atrocity. If you visit Rwanda, we highly recommend spending a few hours there.

We didn’t make any special trips to other genocide museums or memorials, including those that marked mass graves or churches where people were slaughtered. Quite honestly, there was only so much we could digest emotionally.

3) Rwanda, more than mountain gorillas

Most travelers come to Rwanda to see the mountain gorillas at Volcanoes National Park and leave, often to nearby countries as part of a broader trip in the region. This is really a shame as the country has some incredibly beautiful landscape, including lakes, volcanos and mountains. Not to mention the opportunity to visit local markets and villages to get a feel for everyday life in Rwanda. Note: We did not go mountain gorilla trekking in Rwanda as we were fortunate to see them in neighboring Uganda.

Rwandan Kids - Musanze, Rwanda
Playing games with school kids on their way to class.

We focused our time in Rwanda on three areas – the town of Kibuye on the shores of Lake Kivu, Musanze district in the north and the capital city of Kigali. Although we could have explored other areas such as Akagera National Park and Nyungwe Forest, we were traveling with our friend, Shannon, and found ourselves content to take our time and relax after being on the road for a heavy travel month in Ethiopia and Uganda.

Our first stop in Kibuye on the shores of Lake Kivu with a peaceful (and cheap) guest house run by the Catholic church overlooking the lake was just what we needed. I’m almost embarrassed by how much time we spent on the balcony gazing out over the lake, watching the light play games and absorbing the changes in the sky as the day progressed.

Mid-morning light, the deck outside our peaceful little perch ($12/night) above Lake Kivu -- near the Congo border in Kibuye, Rwanda. via Instagram http://ift.tt/1qMXH32
Early morning view of Lake Kivu from our room.

Lake Kivu, Calm Before the Storm - Kibuye, Rwanda
Late afternoon clouds move in on Lake Kivu for a sunset storm.

In Musanze, the jumping off point for Volcanoes National Park and Rwanda’s gorilla treks, we took a couple of day trips by jeep and on foot to see the twin lakes (Lake Burera and Lake Ruhondo), the nearby volcanoes, and a scattering of local towns and villages.

Audrey & Dan Goof Off at Mount Muhabura, Rwanda
Deciding not to take on Mount Muhabura, the extinct volcano behind us.

Lake Burera, One of the Twin Lakes Near Musanze, Rwanda
Farms and homes on the hills, Twin Lakes near Musanze district.

If you’re curious about the practical travel details for Kibuye, Musanze and Kigali, we’ve provided them at the end of this article here.

4) First country to ban plastic bags

Open your bags, please,” the Rwandan official asked at the land border crossing with Uganda.

While this is not an uncommon request at borders around the world – officials often search for contraband like alcohol, drugs, banned fruits and vegetables – Rwandan officials hunt for something more curious, plastic bags.

Border officials rifled through our backpacks. When they found a plastic bag, they would force us to remove its contents and hand it over. A bit of an inconvenience, but I was happy to forfeit a few bags for a worthwhile cause. If you’ve ever seen a landscape swamped in plastic bags, you’ll understand what I mean. And you’ll understand why Rwanda takes the approach they do.

So it is that Rwanda is the first country in the world to ban plastic bags (2006). And they take it seriously.

Even attempting to understand the world takes effort, more than a passing glance. And sometimes we get stuck, observing and unlocking. Rwanda, a walk through a village yields simple homes, yet well cared for. No trash & tended gardens. "There are rules here" said one Rwandan man, while another looked out and said "maybe this country aims to be the Singapore of Africa." This is just a little girl, the brightness of a future that knows different than the past. Taken near Red Rocks, just outside Ruhengeri / Musanze. via Instagram http://ift.tt/1jE7seT
Village scene near Musanze in northern Rwanda, plastic bag free.

As you travel through the country, you’ll notice that it is remarkably — and quite beautifully — plastic bag free. And when you buy something, the store provides you a paper or woven bag instead.

A nationwide plastic bag ban. It’s possible, and it’s an inspiration.

5) Inimitable African head-carrying balance

It’s not as if we’d never seen women carry things balanced on their heads before, but in Rwanda this practice seems to be taken to an entirely new level of artistry and color. A common scene on the street: four or five women walking, talking, laughing and gesticulating dramatically — all while keeping their necks perfectly erect and large baskets of food or agricultural tools on their heads steady.

The posture, strength and beauty of it all — incredible.  Would make the top models in the world jealous.

Balancing Baskets on Head - Kibuye, Rwanda
No hands needed, Rwandan women show off their posture and strength.

6) The slow food movement is taken literally in Rwanda

One feature that struck us in Rwanda was the glacial pace of food preparation and restaurant service. As in, you often must invest hours and plan ahead for meals.

First off, there is no street food in Rwanda — for hygienic reasons, we’re told. So options for a quick bite to eat are slim to none. So we often ate in restaurants, avoiding buffets where food had been sitting around, and ordering items a la carte.

We have no idea what was happening in those kitchens. At times, something as simple as beans and rice, fried chicken or pasta would take an hour or two – or sometimes several – to appear. This happened consistently, independent of the price level of the eating establishment. It progressed to the point where we were forced to strategize food ordering schedules several hours in advance to avoid becoming ravenous and gnawing on our hands.

I’m all for slow food and fresh ingredients, but Rwanda took it to a whole new extreme.

7) Overnight language switch from French to English

Parlez-vous français? Do you speak English?” This is how I approached everyone in Rwanda. I wasn’t linguistically schizophrenic. Rather, I just wanted to cover all communication bases. Older Rwandans often responded in French. Younger folks, English. Here’s why.

Until 2008, Rwandan schools and classes were administered in French language. Then one day, the government declared English the country’s official language in schools. Poof.  That was it.

The reasons for the switch are many: English is more of a universal business language, most of Rwanda’s neighbors are English-speaking, and shared business language promotes trade and exchange. Not to mention, the switch further distances the country from Belgium and France and its colonial history with them.

Laughing Kid on Fishing Boat - Lake Kivu, Rwanda
A smile and wave, the universal language.

However, the sudden switch meant linguistic confusion as instructors accustomed to teaching in French were suddenly expected to teach in English. Sink or swim, I suppose. As time passes, the level of English will improve as more English-speaking teachers are integrated into the school system. For now, however, it’s an advantage to speak a little French while traveling in Rwanda.

8) Umuganda: Community Days

On the last Saturday of each month, all Rwandans are called upon for Umaganda (meaning “contribution”), a national day of mandatory community service. Rwandans are expected to show up to contribute to public projects, to help build and clean. If you don’t show up, you can expect a fine. (Expats we spoke to told us they are exempt, however. At least no one seems to pursue them should they choose not to participate.)

In addition to helping to keep the country clean and organized, community service days are also meant to strengthen social ties by encouraging all members across society to work together, to know both your neighbors and local government officials better. While this practice has been in place for over a century, it now plays a particularly important role in promoting unity and cooperation in Rwanda’s post-genocide culture and society.

The road to Mt. Muhabura, now an extinct volcano. Seen on today's Rwandan real life drive. A little bit of red road, plenty of green, kids waving hello (and yelling "mzungu!"), everyone carrying all manner of stuff on their heads...and a whole lot of color. via Instagram http://ift.tt/1jVlhB4
Tidy roads and village in and around Mt. Muhabura

We didn’t have a chance to witness these community days in action, but I rather like the concept and appreciate the leadership and commitment required to maintain the practice.

9) Heavy influence of foreign aid

Although we’ve seen our share of foreign aid during our travels in the developing world, Rwanda stood out. In Kigali, our ride from the bus station to our hostel alone was striking. We were amazed by the shiny new buildings one after another, each owned and run be an aid organization — international, multinational, religious. Shiny cars, fences, fresh paint all stood out.

In the aftermath of the genocide, the international community contributed heavily to help rebuild the country. Much of this aid was based on need, but it was also doled out in part to assuage the guilt of the international and religious communities who didn’t do more to halt the genocide in the first place. Although the Rwandan government invests in education and infrastructure to help the country become a center for trade and business, aid still plays an outsized role in the country’s GDP (40% of it in 2011).

The effects of heavy foreign aid, both good and bad, are clear as one travels throughout the country. We rarely saw huts or shacks. More sturdy cement homes with shiny new tin roofs were the norm. Schools were in good condition and roads were sealed and so far in good shape. On the down side, one also felt an undercurrent of expectation on the side of local people that foreign money and resources will always be there – a stroke against self-reliance. Begging, even amongst kids wearing clean school uniforms, was the norm as they looked to foreigners for handouts. My hope is that that over time circumstances might conspire so that the Rwandan people believe more in themselves than in others, particularly when it comes to developing their own country.

10) Markets are where the action is

Although Rwanda may aim to be the Switzerland or Singapore of Africa, it’s still Africa. And its markets are where you can still find some action and lingering bits of refreshing chaos. Piles of everything from beautiful multi-colored broad beans to carved chunks of cassava root stir the senses.

Cassava for Sale at Kibuye Market - Rwanda
Learning about how to eat cassava at the Kibuye market.

In the open air markets we visited, we found people weren’t especially accustomed to seeing or interacting with wazungu (the plural of mzungu or “white person”). At first, locals appeared a bit wary or uncertain of us, but once we asked a few questions about what they were selling and how they consumed or used them — herbs, root vegetables, beans, sorghum, etc. -– they opened up and the fun ensued.

Note: Knowing how to speak a bit of French definitely helps, particularly among the older crowd.

Rwanda Travel Photo Gallery

Rwanda Budget Travel Tips

From our experience it seems as if most travelers in Rwanda are on a packaged tour and the country is aiming for a non-budget traveler crowd. It is possible to travel on a budget and arrange things independently, but it may take some extra time and effort. While public transportation between towns is efficient and reasonably priced, off track and independently arranged transport can by surprisingly pricey.

Here are our budget travel recommendations from our visit to Rwanda.

Kigali Travel Recommendations

For anything that you might want to know about Kigali – restaurants, bars, markets, shops, excursions, etc. – Living in Kigali is the first place to look. The founder (and our friend), Kirsty, has been living in Kigali for several years already.

Accommodation in Kigali Not a lot of good budget accommodation options in Kigali. We stayed at Discover Rwanda Hostel our first night, but thought the price ($42) was a bit high for a double room with a shared bathroom. On our return trip to Kigali, we were fortunate to stay with a couple of English teachers we met in Kibuye.

Food in Kigali: The highlight of our eating experience in Rwanda was Indian food at the restaurant of Blueberry Hotel in the Nyarutarama neighborhood. Highly recommend the paneer hadee and chicken kalimichi. Not cheap at $8-10 per dish, but portions are huge so it could last two meals. The menu was unusual and extraordinarily deep, and our dishes were nothing short of spectacular and featured a level of flavor and heat we often hope for in Indian restaurants but rarely find.  Also recommended is Republika for carafes of wine and grilled meat.

Motorbike taxis: The best (and cheapest) way to get around the sprawling city of Kigali is on the back of a motorbike taxis. Every motorbike driver will have a proper helmet for you. Most rides will cost you a couple of dollars, but be sure to bargain and note that the first price given is usually the mzungu (white person) price.

Chili Peppers at the Nyamirambo Market - Kigali, Rwanda
Chili pepper still art at Nyamirambo market in Kigali.

Lake Kivu – Kibuye Travel Recommendations

We chose to base ourselves in Kibuye over Gisenyi as we heard that Kibuye was less developed for tourism and was more laid back than Gisenyi. And that it was. Highly recommend spending a few days in Kibuye to relax.

Accommodation and food: We highly recommend staying at Home Saint Jean, a simple guesthouse connected to the Catholic Church on a hill overlooking the lake. A great laid back feel. There are rooms for all budgets. We took a double room with shared bathroom for $12/night. Bigger rooms with en suite bathrooms directly overlooking the lake are more like $20-$35. We also ate all our meals here. Good, but slow going (see #6 above). Tel: +250784725107

Transportation: Buses connect Kigali and Kibuye regularly (about 2.5 hours), departing on the half hour. We took the public boat from Kibuye to Gisenyi that leaves from a pier near Hotel Golf on Tuesday and Friday at around 1PM (depends on when the boat arrives from Cyangugu), takes around 2 hours and costs 2500 Rfw ($4). We recommend this option instead of the long, winding bus ride.

Musanze / Ruhengeri Travel Recommendations

This town and area are the jumping off points for gorilla trekking and excursions into Volcano National Park, so there’s a decent tourism infrastructure here.

Accommodation: We stayed at Amahoro Guesthouse – $30 for a double room, including breakfast. It’s in a good location downtown so you can easily walk to things. The caretaker of the house, Muhoozi, is very friendly and welcoming and takes good care of you (including, cooking your beans should you buy them from the market like we did).

Restaurants: La Paillote was our favorite place in town as it had a solid menu of pasta, pizza, sandwiches, and fish plates for reasonable prices ($4-$8). It also serves up good coffee. Many of the cheaper restaurants in town serve up buffets, which we weren’t so keen on.  We prefer our food to be cooked fresh to order.

We also cooked our own meal by picking up beans, rice and vegetables (like pumpkin squash) at the market and cooking them in the guesthouse kitchen. Terrifically tasty with the few of the local spices, curry packets and a dash or two of Ethiopian spices thrown in.

Musanze Day Tours: We took two separate day tours with Amahoro Tours, organized at the guesthouse. The first tour was a jeep ride out to Lakes Burera and Ruhondo (aka, the twin lakes), driving through villages and communities along the way. If you do this tour, ask the driver to open the sun roof so that you have good photo opportunities and have fun waving at kids and people along the way. Cost: $80 total for half-day tour, maximum of six people

The second day trip we did was the mountain hike of Rugalika that begins from Red Rocks Guesthouse on the outskirts of Musanze (hop on a motorbike taxi to get there). It goes for several hours up into the hills to a school and then through a couple of villages and rural communities on the way back out. It was a good walk through rural areas, but if you only have time for one we’d recommend the jeep trip to the lakes. Cost: $20 per person.

Volcanoes National Park Treks: Our original plan was to do some trekking in Volcanoes National Park, but as the weather was iffy (cloudy and rainy) and the costs were high we opted for the day trips above instead. In addition to the park fees (usually $75 per person for day treks), you also need to arrange private transport from Musanze to the park entrance ($80/day). Any guesthouse can help you with this.

Transportation: Musanze is a well-connected spot, so you should have no problem getting in and out. It took about an 1-1.5 hours by bus from Gisenyi (Lake Kivu) and then 2.5 hours by bus to Kigali.

The post Travel to Rwanda: First Impressions appeared first on Uncornered Market.

http://uncorneredmarket.com/rwanda-travel/feed/ 37 -1.9438890 30.0594444
Should Travelers Give to Kids Who Beg?http://uncorneredmarket.com/should-travelers-give-to-kids-who-beg/ http://uncorneredmarket.com/should-travelers-give-to-kids-who-beg/#comments Tue, 22 Jul 2014 15:03:05 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=18913 By Audrey Scott

We paused along the side of the road in what seemed like the middle of nowhere for a view over the hills outside of the Ethiopian town of Lalibela. Moments later, a boy of about four years ran up. He was shepherd to his family’s goats on a nearby hill. His clothes were torn, he […]

The post Should Travelers Give to Kids Who Beg? appeared first on Uncornered Market.

By Audrey Scott

We paused along the side of the road in what seemed like the middle of nowhere for a view over the hills outside of the Ethiopian town of Lalibela. Moments later, a boy of about four years ran up. He was shepherd to his family’s goats on a nearby hill. His clothes were torn, he poked curiously around us foreigners, using our guide as an interpreter.

One of the people in our group began pulling a toy koala bear out of her purse to give to him.

No. Please don’t,” Fekadu, our Ethiopian guide, implored. “There are other kids around. He will tell his family and the others will hear that he got something from a faranji (the local term for “foreigner”). This is how the begging cycle begins. It used to not be this way. I don’t want this for my people, my country.”

To his point, within a matter of minutes, the hills were literally crawling with kids, palms upturned, echoing the words pen, money and candy. By this point in our journey, we’d faced this situation countless times. Some of the kids were plain curious, while others clearly expected stuff.

If you’ve ever traveled in a developing country, you’re probably familiar with this scene. Maybe you find it uncomfortable. Maybe your heart aches since the kids around you appear to have so very little. Maybe the contrasting privilege that carried you to the country is not lost on you.

Giving is a good thing, right? But is it a good idea to give money and pass out things to children who beg? Will it really help those kids? Will it help their community?

A recent visit to Ethiopia and more generally to East Africa reaffirmed and crystallized my thinking on the topic. The answer: No.

Here’s why we believe this, followed by a few ideas how you can engage with kids and give responsibly to help and support children and families where you are visiting.

This Article Includes:


The Don’ts: 7 Reasons Why You Shouldn’t Give to Kids Who Beg

Here are a few reasons why we discourage giving handouts to kids while you are traveling. The big takeaway: our actions may have consequences unseen, ones we cannot even fathom. There are times where direct distribution may be appropriate. Travelers handing out stuff indiscriminately on the streets isn’t one of them.

This list is compiled from our own experience, including conversations with local people, organizations, and well-informed travelers from Latin America to Asia to Africa.

1) Contributes to a cycle of begging and continued poverty

Kids learn quickly. If one begging encounter yields success, why wouldn’t others? When children hear that foreign travelers give away money and stuff, why not give it a try? And why wouldn’t parents who are poor take advantage of this and send their kids to beg or sell goods on the street? Watch this short video from ChildSafe that explains the cycle even better.

Not to mention, it furthers a culture of sympathy tourism and dependency, for which there is no productive place. [Editors update: To further explain, our definition of "sympathy tourism." Sympathy is defined by "feeling pity for someone" and put into action it is when organizations and people engage in earning money with the technique of trying to get pity from travelers. We first heard this phrase used in Uganda after a discussion about being approached by numerous people supposedly representing NGOs and orphanages.]

2) Begging success = no school?

If a child makes too much money begging or selling, his parents might not send him to school. File this under the Law of Unintended Consequences. Now what traveler would intentionally try to prevent a kid from going to school? None that we know of. That’s why awareness of this issue is so important.

Young Students in Rural School - Nalbata, Bangladesh
Travelers should be supporting education for children, not unknowingly hindering it.

3) Reduces tourism to a transaction

The greatest disservice in all of tourism: reducing two people to a transaction. Begging dehumanizes, it objectifies. It turns the traveler into a walking dollar bill and transforms the begging child into a walking collection box, thereby stripping everyone involved of his dignity. It erects barriers behind which there might otherwise be a connection. It takes the human-ness out of travel. It creates a stereotype of all of us, robbing us of our humanity.

4) Food money = drug money?

When a traveler gives money or stuff to kids, does she imagine the gift being used to get high? Maybe not, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen.

While traveling in Uganda, we heard about GI-ASCO, a small home for runaway kids, in the town of Jinja. The founder of the home, Gerald Wandera, tells of children ending up in Jinja solely to beg from tourists and get enough money to buy their next hit — usually sniffing glue or petrol (gas). If travelers knew the child recipients of their generosity were using it to get high, would they knowingly contribute to this practice?

5) Creates an imbalance in the local community

The thing to note about children living in poverty: quite often the people around them live in similar conditions. Giving to some children creates a situation of imbalance where, by nothing other than luck, some have more than others. This can also contribute to bullying to even the score.

6) Supports begging mafias.

If you don’t know what a begging mafia is, read here. The concept was also brought to light by the film Slumdog Millionaire and the novel A Fine Balance. Begging mafias also exist outside of India and are more prevalent than most of us are aware. The exploitation of children alone is tragic enough. To make matters worse, mafias kidnap, blind or otherwise injure and disable children so that they may earn even more money. The developed world isn’t quite free of it, either. A well-established begging mafia used to exist in Prague, Czech Republic when we lived there.

7) Contributes to other unforeseen dangers

When we were in Ethiopia we saw kids dancing in the middle of the road. “Cute!” was our first thought. The problem was that they were doing this to get money. They were consistently putting themselves at added risk on already dangerous roads. The same principle was at work in Uganda where we witnessed travelers throwing pens and pencils out of an open overland truck window. One wrong move by the driver or one of the kids and you have another unnecessary casualty on your hands.

The Do’s: 7 Ways to Give and Engage Responsibly

The desire to give and to give back to the places we visit is a good thing. It’s something that ought to be encouraged, but we need to find the appropriate outlets or channels to give effectively.

What does “giving effectively” really mean? It means giving in a way that supports a set of behaviors and expectations that may someday obviate the need to give. Call it the Teach a Man to Fish precept.

So it’s not only that you give, but how. Here are a few ideas for effective and responsible giving while traveling.

1) Give directly to an organization

Find an organization that you can trust, one whose work is paired with long-term values such as furthering education, providing opportunity and promoting self-reliance. You might be able to find such organizations through a recommendation from your tour operator. Or if you are traveling independently ask around where you are traveling or do some research in advance to find out about organizations operating in the area. Then give money or supplies to these organizations directly. This might include donating from home (e.g., online) or perhaps finding a way to visit the organization as part of your trip.

Likewise, do not shy away from asking tough questions to find out how an organization uses its money and resources. The sad thing is that some people (locals and foreigners alike) have begun creating organizations to earn money from sympathetic travelers. Throughout Uganda, “sympathy” orphanages whose business model seems to run on referrals from local itinerants and opportunists seemed a popular choice. A few questions about the organization usually served to dispel any notion of legitimacy.

Finally, do not underestimate the collective knowledge of your social networks and be sure to reach out on social media channels (e.g., Twitter, Facebook) to gather information and recommendations.

2) Seek out and frequent social enterprises

A social enterprise is an organization that is run like a business, but whose profits go to community projects that address a social need. Social enterprises will often train and hire disadvantaged single mothers or street kids, providing them employment and skills they wouldn’t otherwise be able to obtain.

This could mean that as you enjoy lunch or a coffee at a social enterprise restaurant, your money is supporting that organization’s projects. Same goes for when you buy handicrafts from a social enterprise. When the right organizations are involved, it can really be a win-win situation for everyone.

Women Learn Crafts at Give a Heart to Africa - Moshi, Tanzania
Adult women’s education classes at Give a Heart to Africa teach handicrafts. The products are for sale in shop.

During our recent trip to East Africa we found the Nyamirambo Women’s Centre in Kigali, Rwanda providing walking tours and selling crafts as a way to fund the organization’s women’s training programs. In Moshi, Tanzania we also visited a new project by Planeterra and Give a Heart to Africa (GHTA) whereby the proceeds from a local crafts shop and spa go to supporting a local women’s education and development program. We also recommend checking out the Grassroots Volunteering worldwide database of social enterprises before setting off on your next trip. Update: We also saw that ChildSafe has a good list of social enterprises for Southeast Asia on this page.

3) Find out what organizations actually need instead of giving what you think they need.

These may not be the same thing. Many people are apparently under the impression that kids need pens at school. Maybe so, maybe not depending on the school. If you buy goods and supplies, try to buy them locally instead of buying them at home. Not only will this strategy further contribute to the local economy via your purchases, but your bags will weigh less.

4) Engage with kids as kids

Play games (juggling or magic tricks work great), kick a ball around, practice English, ask questions, or just be present. It may not always easy, but creatively turning the uncomfortable into fun is an art we can all benefit by learning. It also humanizes the interaction and your travel experience.

Audrey Plays Soccer (football) with Kids in Lalibela, Ethiopia
Audrey jumps into a game of pickup football (soccer) in Lalibela, Ethiopia.

5) Invest in a meal

If you really feel you must help a child who appears to be hungry, consider buying him a meal or giving him some food that he can consume on the spot, so that there’s no opportunity to trade it for something else.

6) Learn a few words in the local language that respectfully communicate no or no money and say them firmly

I found that worked effectively in Ethiopia. Once children realized I wasn’t going to give them anything, they began engaging me as a human being again.

7) Ask permission for photographs and show the images

If the child is particularly young, ask the mother or father if it’s OK to take the photo. If it looks like money might be expected, ask permission and clearly say “no money.” Be sure to show the kids their image in the viewfinder. In most cases, that’s what they’re interested in. Then enjoy the giggles that ensue.

Having Fun with the Kids of the Garo Village - Srimongal, Bangladesh
Kids all over the world love seeing their image in the viewfinder. Srimongal, Bangladesh

How the Tourism Industry Can Better Educate Travelers on Begging and Giving

We can’t assume that everyone traveling has the knowledge and experience required to understand the local context and the right thing to do. The tourism industry and all its players should aim to provide travelers with locally-relevant, practical advice on how to engage responsibly with children (and adults, for that matter).

1) Hotels and accommodation providers

Provide guidelines on DO’s and DON’Ts in the local community as part of the information packet in each room and in the lobby area. Kudos to Simien Lodge in Ethiopia for including an explanation as to why they recommend their guests not give pens and money to kids they meet on nearby hiking trails. Lodge management then provided an alternative where travelers could donate money to help outfit local schools with much needed furniture and supplies.

2) Tour operators

Include a section in the tour notes for applicable destinations regarding responsible engagement with local children. This information should be reinforced in the introductory tour briefing. For example, G Adventures and Planeterra Foundation are working with ChildSafe to create a training webinar for their guides on child safety and traveler interaction with local children.

3) Local tourism offices

In addition to having written information displayed in the office about the local situation and best practices for responsible engagement, staff should be trained to talk about this issue and answer travelers’ questions.

4) Restaurants and cafes

If you run a restaurant or cafe that’s popular with tourists, congratulations! Could you also consider prominently displaying a laminated page or poster with the do’s and don’ts of engaging with local kids — as you see it. Ideally, your public service poster could also include a list of local, respected organizations where travelers can contribute supplies, time and money.


Conclusion: Travel Giving and Altruism

If your goal is to truly help others while you travel, think twice about what you are doing and how you are doing it. Don’t confuse a good feeling of giving with doing what’s best for the recipients of your gift and their community. For you may just be doing what’s best for you while doing a disservice to the very people you are seeking to help.

As travelers become more aware locally and globally, we can better align our giving decisions with our values and our hopes for making an impact and contribution. We can maximize the good we do, especially when we do it effectively.

What are your thoughts on this issue? Do you have any suggestions of other ways to give responsibly and effectively when traveling?

The post Should Travelers Give to Kids Who Beg? appeared first on Uncornered Market.

http://uncorneredmarket.com/should-travelers-give-to-kids-who-beg/feed/ 106
My Date With An Ethiopian Hair Butcherhttp://uncorneredmarket.com/my-date-ethiopian-hair-butcher/ http://uncorneredmarket.com/my-date-ethiopian-hair-butcher/#comments Thu, 10 Jul 2014 19:47:03 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=18891 By Daniel Noll

I left my heart in San Francisco, but I left my hair in Ethiopia. The danger sign was there, quite literally. The two hairstyle options apparently available to me at my Ethiopian barber shop of choice: Ricky Martin and Ludacris. I was in northern Ethiopia with a mess I’d deliberately grown out for almost two […]

The post My Date With An Ethiopian Hair Butcher appeared first on Uncornered Market.

By Daniel Noll

Dan's Ethiopian Haircut - Gondar, Ethiopia
My hair style option: Ricky Martin or Ludacris?

I left my heart in San Francisco, but I left my hair in Ethiopia.

The danger sign was there, quite literally. The two hairstyle options apparently available to me at my Ethiopian barber shop of choice: Ricky Martin and Ludacris.

I was in northern Ethiopia with a mess I’d deliberately grown out for almost two months — saving myself, the African haircut virgin — and I was determined to navigate yet another haircut-as-cultural-experience. A World Wrestling Entertainment match, piped in from somewhere in the Middle East (who knew WWE needed subtitles?), blared on the television. All the men in the shop sported either dreadlocks or close cut afros.

Oh, the many forms of adventure travel we embrace.

Barber Shop Tourism. Why?

Sure, I seek traditional thrills while I travel. But I also pursue haircuts. I figure that barber shops serve as a window onto a culture. Haircuts have something to teach me about a place, and also my nerve.

I’ve had my ears torched in Turkey. I’ve enjoyed a 66-cent best-ever haircut in Peru (satisfying), a dazzling butt-cut grease comb in the mountains of Azerbaijan (horrifying), a birth control class with an Armenian barber in Yerevan (puzzling), a doom delivering barber in Malaysia (enlightening), and a street-side shave in Bangladesh that nearly halted traffic (unsettling), among a host of others.

I should note that Audrey, quite wisely and thankfully, does not share my curiosity.

A full account of haircut chronicles are forthcoming. To it I will add Ethiopia, a place that is known to me now as much for its deep culture as it is for its deep cuts.

The Hair Butcher of Gondar

I asked Fekadu, our dreadlocked guide, for barber shop recommendations in Gondar, a well-serviced looking town known for its collection of castles. Skeptical, he narrowed his eyes. In the most diplomatic tone he could muster, he tried to warn me off, “Ethiopia might not be the best place for a white guy like you to get a haircut.

What did he know?

As it turns out, a lot.

The barbers looked a little thrown-off when I sat down in their chair. I might as well have been a fish. There was a distinct hesitation as to who would tackle this customer.

After puzzling for a pause, the one with a huge tattoo of Jesus Christ in a crown of thorns across his left bicep wrapped a cover around me. I pointed to the Ricky Martin poster in the window and offered a charade: “Ricky. Short on the side, little longer on top.”

He gave a quick nod in something that approximated acknowledgement and went to work.

It occurs to me that “work” here is a generous term. Wrecking balls do work, too.

Clippers. Lots of them. Attachments, too. Maybe a dozen. The odd thing was that the barber seemed to switch back and forth between various gauges of clipper extensions in random sequence and at random sites of my skull: number 4, then 9, then 6. Back, then side, then back again.

This struck me as unusual and dubious. Frightening and dangerous. In retrospect, I should have stood up, placed my hands together in a sort of gratitudinous prayer and walked out. Instead, I stuck with it.

My hair began to slough off in uneven chunks.

The barber and I shared no common verbal language. And charades carried their own special danger. There was no escape.

I retreated inward. “Maybe this won’t be so bad after all,” I attempted to console myself. I looked into the mirror, then to Audrey sitting along the back wall. I hoped she might intervene and save me. Instead, she buried her head in Ethiopian men’s magazines.

I wouldn’t have watched, either.

For a brief moment, I became philosophical. Haircuts are instructive, I thought. For in haircuts — as in the whole of one’s life — there are no do-overs. Life is short. Abruptly, my hair was becoming so, too.

Lean into it,” I thought.

As the buzzing continued, it was clear that I would look nothing like Ricky Martin or Ludacris, but rather their love child. Maybe even a little bit shorn, like Sigourney Weaver in Alien 3.

Sigourney weaver hair

Just When You Think It Can’t Get Any Worse

What troubled me were all the little bits, bobs, and tufts that hadn’t quite been trimmed, rounded, tapered or faded properly.

The situation, however, would grow considerably worse.

Dan's Ethiopian Hair Cut
Wrestling on the TV above, about to enter hair hazard zone.

The barber began to focus decreasing amounts of his already waning attention on my head and redirected it to the television. As his focus drifted to the TV, and greased bodies flew on the screen above him, so did his hand. He held the clippers in one hand and sparred in response to the fake brawl playing out on the television with the other. His movements took on a sort of involuntary quality, much like a dog’s might when you scratch its belly and you hit the spot.

Clearly, the wrestling match hit the spot for my barber. While he stabbed at the air with his left hand, his right hand got into the action. It was this right hand that really frightened me. In it were the still humming clippers and its vicinity was my unevenly shorn head.

This wasn’t so bad.

It was grim.

Ummm, yes. My head,” I murmured quietly. I wished to make eye contact but I was afraid to move at all, for any sudden lurch might speed catastrophe. I imagined a zipper cut down a random lane of my skull.

kid shaves head
I kind of felt like this.

Thankfully, one wrestler pinned the other, things simmered down, and my barber returned to work.

I’d exhausted any hope for the sides and the back. Thankfully, there was still a flappy tuft on top and flaky bangs in front.

Then he pulled out a short clipper and bee-lined straight for the bangs.

But, but…” I murmured to myself, in that paralyzed “I’d like to scream, but I can’t” kind of sensation I’ve had during my worst nightmares. I could see the train wreck – like the one that spills over a mountainside and takes out an orphanage along the way — playing out in slow motion.

He’s not really going to do this, is he?

Then he did.

Help…” A meek little voice cried out silently inside of me.

He cut straight under the bangs on the right side of my head. The shingle of hair that remained was probably less than a centimeter long. My head looked like a roof where the right pitch had been removed for repair.

I stared into the mirror in search of solace, paths of restoration.

There were none. The damage was virtually complete.

It was apparent my barber knew not of bangs nor of forward fringes. He left the tuft on top. I didn’t take issue. Better to leave with the devil we know than to find the one we don’t. As I alighted my chair and looked around the shop, no surprise. There were a few dreadlocks, and the others sheer afro cuts at the front of the head.

The barber tried to make me look just like everyone else in the shop.

How could I begrudge that?

Dan's Hair Cut in Ethiopia
With my Ethiopian barber after it was all over. Good times!

The Verdict

I returned to meet our group for dinner, running my hand through the remaining hair to salvage tousle what remained, all in a painfully weak attempt to disguise the damage.

Oh, it looks good,” they echoed. You know, the perfunctory bit everyone utters when she’s shocked that you actually did THAT.

One of our companions took a first look, “Oh, not so bad.”

Then as she moved around, you could see the extent of the mess registering on her face. “Yes, it’s a little uneven.” As she wheeled to the back, “Ohh, yes…

She didn’t need to finish the sentence. Easily, hands down to a hairy barbershop floor, it was my worst haircut ever.

Ludacris? Or ludicrous?

Fekadu looked at my hair and shook his head with a smile: “Yes. But, it was an experience.

He was right. I got exactly what I’d come for.

Have a hair-raising moment of your own, or an odd travel routine that’s your lens of cultural comparison? Sound off.


Disclosure: Our tour in Ethiopia was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.


Our experiences above were from the G Adventures Ethiopia Highlights Tour. If you plan to book this or another tour with G Adventures, please consider starting the process by clicking on the ad below. The price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission. Thank you!

Africa Tours with G Adventures

The post My Date With An Ethiopian Hair Butcher appeared first on Uncornered Market.

http://uncorneredmarket.com/my-date-ethiopian-hair-butcher/feed/ 31 12.6000004 37.4666672
Ethiopian Food (An Overview of Ethiopian Cuisine)http://uncorneredmarket.com/ethiopian-food/ http://uncorneredmarket.com/ethiopian-food/#comments Fri, 27 Jun 2014 15:45:27 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=18839 By Daniel Noll

When we headed to Ethiopia recently, I went packing with high expectations of the food. Years ago, I was fortunate enough to be introduced to Ethiopian food fresh out of university. In Washington, D.C., just new to world cuisine, I clearly recall my first pull of a round stretchy pancake-like injera bread, beautifully colored mounds […]

The post Ethiopian Food (An Overview of Ethiopian Cuisine) appeared first on Uncornered Market.

By Daniel Noll

Maheberawi (Mixed Meat Platter) at Kategna Restaurant in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Ethiopian food in Ethiopia. Expectations exceeded.

When we headed to Ethiopia recently, I went packing with high expectations of the food. Years ago, I was fortunate enough to be introduced to Ethiopian food fresh out of university. In Washington, D.C., just new to world cuisine, I clearly recall my first pull of a round stretchy pancake-like injera bread, beautifully colored mounds of what looked to me like curries, and a massive circular tin plate from which we all grabbed and chowed down. The flavors and communal style of eating was cool and unusual, like nothing I had experienced before. I wanted to learn more.

After praising the food in Ethiopia upon our recent return – yes, it’s as good on the home turf as it is abroad — I was surprised by how little awareness seemed to exist not only of Ethiopian dishes but also of the distinct existence of the cuisine itself, even among some friends I consider well-traveled and food aware.

This isn’t terribly surprising. After all, how often do you hear someone raving about and posting photos of cuisine from sub-Saharan Africa?

Ethiopia is the exception. With its rich, spicy stews and diversity of flavors, Ethiopian food surely qualifies as one the world’s great stand-alone cuisines.

Considering the country’s history and geography, particularly in situ, it makes sense. The cuisine follows the culture, formed and informed by millennia of trade and exchange with the Middle East, Asia and the Mediterranean. Amidst this storm of positive culinary influence, acquired spices blend with Ethiopia’s indigenous ingredients.

And, poof! You get Ethiopian food, a unique table befitting the context.

Here’s what we discovered about Ethiopian food during our time in country: from the basic ingredients and spices that make the cuisine so unique to some of our favorite Ethiopian dishes.

Let’s dig in!

Ethiopian Food: The Fundamentals and Basics


Ethiopian food without injera might be considered heresy by Ethiopians. This spongy pancake-like flatbread made from fermented tef (a gluten-free grain indigenous to Ethiopia) is fundamental to every Ethiopian meal.

Making Injera (Ethiopian Flatbread) in Village near Lalibela, Ethiopia
Making injera the traditional way as a local village prepares for a 500-person wedding.

Injera features a slightly sour flavor that comes from the fermentation of its primary ingredient, a grain called tef. Although we enjoy eating injera, for some it may be an unusual, if not acquired, taste. The tangy flavor, however, seems well-designed to complement the flavors found in Ethiopian stews.

After eating injera across Ethiopia, we also learned that not all injera is created equal. Typically, the lighter the color the higher the quality of the tef grain therein, meaning a smoother, subtler tang. Some injera is deliberately dark, almost to the point of brownish purple.

An Ethiopian Welcome, Injera and Berbere - Lalibela, Ethiopia
Injera with a simple berbere sauce offered as a sign of welcome to a village near Lalibela.

In traditional Ethiopian meals you’ll often find circles of injera rolled out like a natural plate, atop which are arranged a smattering of spicy stews, cooked vegetables and salads. Although the presentation may appear similar to that of an Indian thali, the flavors and style is uniquely Ethiopian. Restaurants will usually bring out baskets full of additional napkin-rolled injera rounds. One thing is almost certain in Ethiopia – you’ll never ever have to worry about running out of injera during a meal!

Yetsom Beyaynetu (Vegetarian Platter) at Four Sisters Restaurant in Gondar, Ethiopia
Injera, the edible base of a typical Ethiopian mixed vegetarian plate. No fork and knife needed.

Injera is meant to be eaten with your hands. Tear off a small bit with your right hand (as in many countries, eating with one’s left hand is a no-no in Ethiopia) and scoop bits of the stews and various dishes into it, forming a bite sized food parcel and gingerly tuck it into your mouth. Don’t feel embarrassed if you get some of the stew or sauce on your fingers in the process – it’s natural and is part of the fun. Tempted though you may be to lick your fingers, know that Ethiopians don’t care for that practice, either.

Injera tip to beat all injera tips: the best bits of injera are the spice- and sauce-infused patches underneath the piles of stew on the tray!

It’s unlikely you’ll ever emerge hungry from a meal with lots of injera, as it fills the stomach for hours. After a big lunch in Ethiopia, it’s rare that we ate a full dinner later in the day, if we ate at all.


The signature red spice mound that delivers magic to most Ethiopian stews, berbere is composed of ground semi-spicy chili peppers (which themselves are called berbere to further confuse) mixed with upwards of 20 individual herbs, spices and ingredients including garlic, cumin, coriander, ginger, and fenugreek.

Ethiopian Cuisine, Berbere and Shiro Powder - Lalibela, Ethiopia
Crucial to the Ethiopian kitchen: berbere on the left, chickpea flour for shiro on the right.


Mitmita is another core spice blend composed of chili peppers (smaller and hotter than berbere), cardamom seed, cloves and salt. While mitmita is often turned in meat dishes to add an extra kick during the cooking process, it’s also used as a condiment to lend some additional heat to the meal on one’s plate.

Mitmita Chili Peppers - Merkato, Addis Ababa
Birdseye chili peppers, core to mitmita. We couldn’t resist buying a bag of mitmita in Addis Ababa.

Niter Kibbeh

Niter kibbeh, a spiced clarified butter similar to Indian ghee, is one of Ethiopia’s secret, magic ingredients that we all ought to know more about. It’s also pure culinary fusion inspiration.

Niter kibbeh is made by cooking butter together with a raft of ingredients including onions, garlic and ginger and spices like fenugreek, cumin, turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon and nutmeg. After a long simmer, the solids are then strained away from the concoction leaving a delicious clarified butter that adds both richness and distinction to most Ethiopian dishes, especially tibs (stir-fried meat), wats (stews), and gored gored (raw beef).

Getting Started with Ethiopian Food: Mixed Plates

Ethiopian dining is a social event, a shared experience that is not only delicious but also a shocking amount of fun.

For the first time visitor to the country (or an Ethiopian restaurant), the best place to begin with Ethiopian food is to order a mixed plate – meat, vegetarian, or both — so that you can sample a variety of stews (wats) and dishes at one sitting. Although the mounds delivered to your table may individually appear small, collectively the portions are often staggeringly large. We recommend sharing a plate with others so you don’t feel overwhelmed.

Although some dishes may appear regularly in mixed plates, the ones that comprise yours will likely be based on whatever happens to be cooked fresh that day. Always a tasty surprise!

Ethiopian Eating = Sociable Eating: When I consider the Ethiopian style of eating, the word that comes to mind is “thali”, the Indian/South Asian term for a meal composed of samples of various dishes.

After our first big meal in the Ethiopian town of Bahir Dar, I aimed to find out the Ethiopian equivalent of this term. So I took a photo of our meal to the bartender at the hotel where we were staying and asked him. After a few false starts, including a round of identifying each of the dishes in the image, the man explained that this was “soshabie” style.

“Can you write it down?” I asked. He did, in English and Amharic script.
Ethiopia Sociable Food
After receiving the piece of paper, I went to the internet to confirm this “soshabie” style of eating. Nothing. I posted it to Facebook anyway, proud that I’d unearthed a new term for Ethiopian eating that no other writer had previously discovered.

I later took the piece of paper to our guide, Fekadu. After puzzling over it, he began laughing. “It’s sociable food. The only reason I know this is that he spelled sociable phonetically using Amharic letters.”

So while there’s no special term like “thali” to describe the Ethiopian style of eating where everyone gathers around a big platter to share, there’s always a story. And perhaps a cultural lesson, too.

Maheberawi (Meat Mixed Plate)

Ethiopian meat-based mixed plates usually combine several stews like key wat (beef stew), tibs (lamb, beef or goat cubes cooked with nitter kibeh and herbs like rosemary), and kitfo (raw ground beef). We highly recommend ordering one of these and sharing it with at least two to three people.

Maheberawi (Meat Mixed Plate) - Ethiopian Food at Lake Shore Restaurant in Bahir Dar
Our Ethiopian Easter meat feast: a maherberawi featuring kitfo, key wat, and tibs.

Recommended Restaurants: Among the best maheberawi we ate in Ethiopia: Lake Shore Restaurant in Bahir Dar and Kategna Restaurant in Addis Ababa.

Yetsom Beyaynetu (Vegetarian Mixed Plate)

Also known as a fasting platter, yetsom beyaynetu is a mixed vegetarian plate that usually includes several types of lentil and split pea stews (e.g., misir wat, alecha kik or mesir kik) with kale (gomen) and a spicy tomato stew (sils). Talk about a vegetarian – if not a vegan — dream.

Ethiopian Fasting Platter (Yetsom Beyaynetu) - Gondar, Ethiopia
A delicious yetsom beyaynetu with an array of lentil stews and mixed vegetables.

Yetsom Beyaynetu is usually available in restaurants in Ethiopia on Wednesday and Friday when practicing Orthodox Ethiopians (the majority of the population) forego meat and dairy products. These dishes are also readily available during the fasting periods before Ethiopian Orthodox Christmas and Easter. Bigger restaurants that are more accustomed to foreigners may offer a vegetarian fasting plate every day, while smaller local restaurants may not.

Recommended Restaurant: The best yetsom beyaynetu we ate in Ethiopia was at Four Sisters Restaurant in Gondar. The staff may encourage the buffet as all the vegetarian dishes are there, but if you order the fasting plate straight from the menu it is cheaper and prettier, and still quite plentiful. Seven Olives Restaurant in Lalibela also serves up a decent yetsom beyaynetu.

A Note for Vegetarians and Vegans Traveling in Ethiopia

Consider traveling in Ethiopia just prior to Orthodox Easter and Orthodox Christmas, as you will be virtually guaranteed to find vegetarian food at this time. During these periods, more strict Ethiopians observe a fast and forgo meat and dairy products for upwards of 50 days. Fasting plates served during these periods are terrifically delicious, and may not always be available in restaurants during non-fasting periods — particularly when locals are ravenous for meat, just after the conclusion of the fast.

Ethiopian Meat Dishes

Doro Wat (Chicken Stew)

This rich chicken stew is one of Ethiopia’s most famous dishes. We were told that when an Ethiopian girl wants to marry, she has to make doro wat for her fiancé’s family as a demonstration of her culinary proficiency and thus worthiness to be chosen as a wife. While this traditional cooking exam may still hold in rural areas, it is quickly dying out in Ethiopian cities.

Doro wat takes forever to make, which is why it is often only served during holidays and on special occasions. It involves slow cooking red onions, berbere and chicken parts for hours, until just the right consistency and blend of flavors has been achieved.

Doro Wat (Ethiopian Chicken Stew) and Injera - Gondar, Ethiopia
Homemade doro wat on a piece of injera. Rich and delicious.

We were fortunate to enjoy a home-cooked version of doro wat at our guide’s friend’s girlfriend’s house. Though the connection was tenuous and the meal difficult to photograph, the taste was wonderful.

Doro wat is difficult to find at restaurants due to the amount of time it takes to prepare, but it is worth making the extra effort to seek it out. Ask your guide, other locals and hotel or restaurant staff well in advance of your meal and they may be able to point you in the direction of where to find it. If it’s not on a restaurant’s standard menu, ask if you can pre-order it for that night or for the following day.

Minchet (Spicy Ground Beef Stew)

Quite often our favorite meat dish, minchet is often placed at the center of a maheberawi (mixed meat plate). This ground meat stew is made from simmered red onions blended with ground beef and berbere. It’s often served topped with a boiled egg or two. Apparently you can ask for a low-spice version, too.

Key Wat (Spicy Beef Stew)

Similar to minchet, but made with meat chunks instead of minced meat. Also served with a boiled egg on top, in the middle of a mixed plate.

Tibs (Stir-Fried Meat)

Cubes of meat (beef, lamb or goat) stir-fried with onions, peppers and other vegetables in niter kibbeh. Quite often, twigs of rosemary or other herbs are added to it. Tibs can also be served spicy with some berbere thrown in. A simple and unassuming dish that’s got more flavor than you would imagine.

Cooking Ethiopian Food, Tibs (Beef with Rosemary) - Lalibela, Ethiopia
Cooking lesson: tibs with fresh rosemary at Lalibela Lodge.

Gomen Be Sega (Meat with Vegetables)

Beef or lamb simmered in copious amounts of niter kibbeh with collard greens and other vegetables like carrots, cabbage and onions. On the occasions we tried gomen be sega, the meat was tough but the vegetables were absolute perfection thanks to the blended flavor of the meat and spiced clarified butter.

Gomen Besega (Vegetables with Beef) - Lalibela, Ethiopia
A hearty serving of gomen be sega.

Recommended Restaurants: We found the best versions of gomen be sega at 7 Olives Restaurant in Lalibela and Kategna Restaurant in Addis Ababa.


Kifto, raw lean ground beef blended with berbere, is another signature dish of Ethiopia. Think of it as the Ethiopian version of the French raw beef steak tartare. As such, visitors will earn bonus points from locals for eating this. Before you judge kitfo and yell “OMG, raw meat in Ethiopia!”, we suggest you give it try. You may look at eating raw meat – and doing so in Ethiopia — in a whole new light.

Recommended Restaurant: The best kitfo we ate: Lake Shore Restaurant in Bahir Dar. It also helped that this was Easter day so the meat was incredibly fresh and rolling out of the kitchen as if it were going out of style.

Gored Gored

Raw meat fine dining at its best. Gored gored features raw cubes of the highest quality beef warmed slightly in spiced Ethiopian butter (niter kibbeh) and turned with berbere spice. Even if you try kitfo and decide that raw meat is not for you, we recommend that you still give gored gored a try. When done well, it’s a spectacularly flavored and textured dish.

Restaurant recommendation: Order gored gored at one of the Kategna Restaurant locations in Addis Ababa. The meat is high quality, the flavor incredibly delicious.

Ethiopian Vegetarian Dishes

Shiro (Chickpea Stew)

Both a fast food and a fasting food, shiro is a vegetarian stew made from chickpea flour mixed with berbere and other spices. It can be served either thick (tagamino) or thin (feses). Although shiro often serves as the center of a yetsom beyaynetu fasting plate, you’ll also find it served on its own. For vegetarians, this is reliable and widely available.

Shiro (Chickpea Flour Stew), Ethiopian Food - Bahir Dar, Ethiopia
A bowl of shiro served with a side of injera.

Mesir Wat (Red Lentil Stew) and Kik Wat (Split Pea Stew)

A rich and spicy red lentil stew, mesir wat was among our favorite staples on a fasting plate. Made with sautéed onions, berbere, cardamom and other spices, misir wat is the ultimate vegetarian comfort food.

Mesir Wat (Spicy Lentil Stew) - Lalibela, Ethiopia
Learning to cook mesir wat at an impromptu cooking class at Lalibela Lodge.

A similarly styled stew made with split peas is called kik wat.

Kik Alicha (Split Pea Stew)

A non-spicy split pea stew made with turmeric, kik alicha helps balance out all the other flavors and spice on an Ethiopian plate. Although kik alicha does not pack a lot of heat, it still features a lot of flavor.

Gomen (Kale or Collard Greens)

Gomen is a simple, flavorful dish made from kale (or collard greens), onions, niter kibbeh and other spices sauteed and simmered together. Gomen made a regular appearance on vegetarian platters and is a welcome addition amongst all those lentils and beans.

Sils (Tomato Stew)

A savory tomato stew made from blended roasted onions, tomatoes, and berbere, sils provides a one-part tart and one-part sweet balance to the greens and beans on a vegetarian platter.

If you tire of injera and traditional food and order pasta in Ethiopia, it’s likely that sils will form the base of your pasta’s red sauce. A unique and roasted twist on Italian pasta sauce.

Ethiopian Snacks and Breakfast

Kolo (Roasted Barley)

Kolo became our go-to beer snack at the end of the day. It’s often served mixed with peanuts and other seeds or nuts. Hearty and healthy, it pairs nicely with a St. George beer at the end of a long day.

Fir-Fir (or Fit-Fit)

Made of sliced pieces of injera turned in berbere sauce or leftover wat, fir-fir is a traditional and hearty (some may say heavy) way to start your day.

Other Ethiopian Spices and Condiments

If you enjoy heat like we do and you’d like to further spice your Ethiopian meal, here are a couple of additional spice condiment items to consider requesting at an Ethiopian restaurant. Not only will your food be spicier, but you’ll also likely impress or puzzle your hosts with the request.


A typical and traditional dark red spice sauce made of berbere blended with water or oil. In traditional Ethiopian restaurants unaccustomed to tourists, it’s typical for this to be served automatically with your meal. In Ethiopian restaurants that cater more to tourists, you may have to ask for it.


A thick, pulverized chili topping. We came across a red chili variety and a green variety that tasted like a blend of Ethiopian low-heat green chilis and green herbs.

Da’ta is especially good if you’d like to spice up western food (e.g., pasta) when you’re taking a break from traditional Ethiopian fare.

Ethiopian Coffee

Coffee in Ethiopia, the land where it was first discovered, is a treat not only because the quality of the coffee is very high, but also because its preparation is careful and elaborate. Regardless of whether you take your coffee in a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony or from an Italian espresso machine (a legacy of the short Italian occupation of Ethiopia during World War II), you are likely to be pleasantly surprised.

Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony, Roasting Coffee Beans & Frankincense - Gondar, Ethiopia
Invited to enjoy an Ethiopian coffee ceremony inside a home in Gondar.

A traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony will likely take at least twenty minutes from start to finish for the first cup of coffee, but it is worth the wait. It begins with your host, always a woman, roasting raw green coffee beans in a pan over a small charcoal oven. When the beans have finished roasting, your host will bring the pan to each person present so that he may enjoy the aroma. At the same time, she’ll light some frankincense to purify and clear the air. Popcorn is usually served as a snack.

The boiled water and freshly ground coffee beans are mixed together in a jebena, a traditional coffee pot, and a magic process — one that only the host knows to ensure a perfect cup of strong coffee — ensues. The coffee is then poured gracefully into small, handleless cups.

Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony, Pouring Coffee - Aksum, Ethiopia
Our host pours freshly brewed coffee from a jebena.

Traditionally, a full coffee ceremony involves three rounds of coffee that proceed from strong (abol) to medium (tona) to weak (baraka), with the final round considered as bestowing a blessing on the coffee drinker.

Coffee ceremonies serve an important social function beyond the actual coffee consumed. Our guide told us that women in the community used to gather each afternoon for a coffee ceremony that takes several hours to finish, thereby ensuring ample time to discuss all news and family issues. Coffee meetings such as these rotate from house to house in a community group, so as to give each of the hosts a break.

Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony - Lalibela, Ethiopia
Enjoying a cup of coffee in a village outside of Lalibela.

Ethiopian Coffee Recommendation: If you are looking for a truly outstanding espresso or macchiato, pay a visit to Tomoca in Addis Ababa. This unassuming coffee roaster and café features a decor of a bygone era and serves up an incredibly rich brew at the hands of a couple masterful baristas. It’s also a good place to purchase whole bean or ground Ethiopian coffee to take home as gifts.

Other Ethiopian Drinks

Tej (Honey Wine or Mead)

An Ethiopian local specialty, tej is a honey wine featuring varying degrees of sweetness. The first batch we tried was almost like a dessert wine (our guide called it “the children’s version”). We took our second taste of a cloudy, earthy and higher alcohol tej in a tej betoch (honey wine house) and nightclub in Lalibela.

Ethiopian Honey Wine (Tej) - Gondar, Ethiopia
Tej served in a traditional bottle (berele).

Tej is usually served in a rounded vase-like or beaker-like glass container called a berele. Although it’s typical to order one berele per person, drinker beware if you manage to finish it all.


A traditional Ethiopian beer made from teff, barley, maize or other grains blended with a green herb called gesho. Tella is usually brewed at home. You’ll often find it in grimy, nondescript plastic bottles lurking in the doorways of local homes. Alcohol concentrations vary widely.


During one of our monster lunch Ethiopian food gorging sessions, I asked Fekadu, our guide: “What do Ethiopians do when they get an upset stomach?”

His response without skipping a beat: “We take a shot of araki.”

Araki is essentially the Ethiopian version of grappa (firewater or moonshine, if you like). If the name sounds like Greek raki or Balkan rakia, that’s because it’s likely descended from or related to the Mediterranean distilled spirits of a similar name. It’s made from gesho leaves and features an alcohol level of around 45%. No wonder it is good for an upset stomach. It likely kills anything in its path, bacteria included.

Ethiopian Beer

Talk to anyone who likes a beer about their experience in Ethiopia and they might wax long about St. George beer. It’s not an incredible beer — and there are certainly other, more complex beers for those who search — but it is tasty enough, particularly after a long day of rock-hewn church hopping.

Be sure to check out the St. George beer label in detail. It’s one of the more colorful and notable beer labels in this part of the world.

Other Ethiopian beers in order of our preference include Dashen, Bedele, Castel, Harar and Meta.

Ethiopian Wine

Ethiopia makes wine? Turns out that it does. We had no idea, either.

Although some Ethiopian wines are unimpressive — sweet and appropriate for aperitif drinking (e.g., Axumit) — it’s rumored that French winemakers have been brought on board to help.

If the oak aged Rift Valley Syrah 2013 (of Castel Winery) is any indication of the future, the situation for Ethiopian wine is looking up. This wine is drinkable straight out of the bottle (or aired for a bit) on its own or paired with doro wat, mesir wat or shiro.

Less remarkable, though still good, is the Rift Valley Merlot 2013.

Although restaurants and hotels may sell these wines at the equivalent of $15/bottle, we were able to find each of them at approximately $7 from a night club in Lalibela. It never hurts to ask.


Ethiopian food demonstrates that we are a product of cultural and culinary evolution. A blend of influences, experiments and vessels carrying flavors that were once unknown.

If you’d like some homework, it’s this: find an Ethiopian restaurant, gather together some friends and go. Sample widely, don’t over-order, marvel at the injera bread with your eyes and mouth, and inspire yourself to travel to the source one day.

Melkam megeb! (መልካም ምግብ)


A huge thanks goes to Fekadu Tesfaye, our G Adventures CEO (guide), who was incredibly patient and helpful with all our questions about Ethiopian food. When we showed our curiosity about Ethiopian cuisine, Fekadu made things happen for all of us — arranging a coffee ceremony and doro wat tasting at a friend of a friend’s home, coming across a village preparing food for a 500-person wedding, and organizing an impromptu cooking class.


Disclosure: Our tour in Ethiopia was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.

Our experiences above were from the G Adventures Ethiopia Highlights Tour. If you plan to book this or another tour with G Adventures, please consider starting the process by clicking on the ad below. The price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission. Thank you!

Africa Tours with G Adventures

The post Ethiopian Food (An Overview of Ethiopian Cuisine) appeared first on Uncornered Market.

http://uncorneredmarket.com/ethiopian-food/feed/ 43 8.9806032 38.7577591
Travel to Ethiopia: First Impressionshttp://uncorneredmarket.com/ethiopia-travel/ http://uncorneredmarket.com/ethiopia-travel/#comments Mon, 02 Jun 2014 13:42:55 +0000 http://uncorneredmarket.com/?p=18753 By Daniel Noll

When I was growing up, I remember Ethiopia having a long run on the nightly news. Unfortunately newscasts all pointed to the grim. Newsreel images featured fly-ridden babies with distended bellies, drought-ruined landscapes and a ravaging famine made only worse by civil war. Sounding familiar? Prior to our visit, we figured some distance between the […]

The post Travel to Ethiopia: First Impressions appeared first on Uncornered Market.

By Daniel Noll

Audrey around the bend, on the edge of the cliffside, a few inches from a long way down (about 500m / 1600ft). Worth the terror, slowly facing fears. Backdrop = Gheralta, Ethiopia. via Instagram http://ift.tt/1n7MchY
This is Ethiopia? Yes. A land of many surprises.

When I was growing up, I remember Ethiopia having a long run on the nightly news. Unfortunately newscasts all pointed to the grim. Newsreel images featured fly-ridden babies with distended bellies, drought-ruined landscapes and a ravaging famine made only worse by civil war.

Sounding familiar?

Prior to our visit, we figured some distance between the Ethiopia of the 1980s and the Ethiopia of today — yet not quite to the extent we’d found. If our visit to Ethiopia proved nothing else, it proved this: though countries remain themselves at heart, they can emerge from perilous circumstances. When they do, stereotypes can slowly be cast aside and the historical, cultural and natural contours – which had always existed yet never been highlighted – can more clearly be revealed.

As we shared photos of unexpected castles, remarkable mountain landscapes, ancient churches and colorful plates of local food during our trip, readers would ask: “Is that really Ethiopia?

Yes it is.

Our unpacking of our travels in Ethiopia begins with a few first yet lasting impressions of the country.

There be castles in Ethiopia. This 17th c. one: Fasiladas' Palace in Gondar. I'm fast realizing I knew little of the depth of this country's history. via Instagram http://ift.tt/1lzMDQn
There be castles in Ethiopia. This 17th century one: Fasiladas’ Palace in Gondar.

1. Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity and Living History

Before our trip to Ethiopia, we were aware in a book sense that it was one of the earliest nations to adopt Christianity (in 330 A.D.). We did not imagine how pervasive and well-documented this historical vein would be, nor could we appreciate how much the country’s present would be connected with its past through ritual.

Church of St. George. Carved top-down from red volcanic rock in the 12th century. Ethiopia's signature historical sight...remarkable. Note the tiny people, right. George slew the dragon. For this, Ethiopia named a beer after him and a country was named after him, too. via Instagram http://ift.tt/1i6tp1b
St. George. Carved top-down from red volcanic rock in the 12th century.

Whether they are rock-hewn or tucked far into the hills, Ethiopia’s churches often feature original paintings and frescoes from as much as 1000 years ago or more. Ancient texts and relics remain in use by today’s priests who bless all those willing by rubbing large ancient metal crosses over afflicted areas of the body.
Biete Medhane Alem (House of the Saviour of the World). Waiting for a Blessing - Lalibela, Ethiopia
Women await a blessing at Biete Medhane Alem (House of the Saviour of the World) in Lalibela.

In the Gheralta Mountains of Tigray province, churches were carved out of natural mountaintop caves as long ago as the fourth century. Why build so? The idea: hide your churches from invading armies while bringing yourself that much closer to heaven.

Climbs were steep then, just as they are now — even for young mothers who carry 40-day old babies on their backs in hopes of peak baptism.

As we followed a 78-year old monk around a cliff’s edge to the 6th century cave church of Daniel Korkor, we could imagine a staggered line of devout Ethiopians making that same journey, wrapped in the same white cotton cloth, over the course of hundreds of years.

Following the Monk to Daniel Korkor Church - Gheralta Mountains in Tigray, Ethiopia
Careful steps behind a 78-year old monk to the cliffside 6th century monastery of Daniel Korkor.

Ethiopia feels very much like a case study in living history. An experience that is as much about feeling an energy as it is about seeing the relics and remnants of an ancient history.

2. Land of Legends

The story goes…

Ethiopian history blends fact and myth almost seamlessly. (Some may even say shamelessly.)

Favorite ancient doorway candidate #32. This one literally buried in a cave, at the 12th century Yemrehanna Kristos church in the northern Ethiopian hills. via Instagram http://ift.tt/1jcHCy9
What’s behind the 12th century Yemrehanna Kristos church near Lalibela? A legend.

So much of Ethiopia’s identity is connected to its history, a history passed on orally which traces its roots back four thousand years to the Queen of Sheba, King Solomon and the Ark of the Covenant. For over a thousand years, Ethiopian kings claimed to be direct descendants of the line of Solomon, living connections between their country, its history, and the Holy Land.

Amidst all that, stories and legends circulate in a fog akin to a long-running historical version of the telephone game. Historians may argue as to the validity of any and all prevailing accounts, but as our guide suggested, “If you believe, then it is true to you. And we believe this is our heritage.”

Belief, it seems, trumps all.

3. Mountains and Desertscape Interactive

Until this visit, we never really considered Ethiopia for trekking and adventure, but our experiences in the Simien Mountains and Gheralta Mountains of Tigray set that straight.

Simien Mountains in Ethiopia
Audrey takes in mountain layers while trekking the Simien Mountains.

Some of our most enjoyable moments and context: the Gheralta Mountains near the town of Hawzia in Ethiopia’s Tigray province. Not only does the area surprise and stun with its Utah-reminiscent red rock backdrop and outcroppings, but treks to 1500-year old cave churches like Maryam Korkor and Daniel Korkor leave no adrenaline untapped as they force challenging climbs up sheer sandstone walls and precarious walks along narrow cliffs.

Not for the faint of heart or for those unwilling to press deeply into their fear of heights.

Late afternoon descent, Gheralta heights. Phenomenal hike and rock climb to the hilltop monasteries of Maryam Korkor. This is peak Ethiopia. #skyporn via Instagram http://ift.tt/1nICdC1
En route to the hilltop monasteries in the Gheralta Mountains. Look familiar?

4. Ancient Language, Ancient Civilization

In and around the ancient sites that make up the modern day northern town of Aksum, stone tablets dating back thousands of years will often be inscribed in three languages: Greek, Arabic, and Ge’ez, an ancient Semitic language that predates Ethiopia’s present-day regional languages. Giant stone obelisks stand, lean and have fallen. While most recognize the ancient civilizations of Egypt, Persia, Rome and Greece among the greats, few know of the similarly advanced Aksumite civilization which made its name in trade across the Middle East, Mediterranean and Asia from 400 B.C. to 800 A.D.

It’s thanks to Ge’ez, a long-standing written language, that we now know so much about Ethiopia’s past.

Old Ethiopian Religious Books in Ge'ez Language - Ashetan Maryam, Lalibela
An Ethiopian religious book written in Ge’ez on goatskin parchment.

All monks and priests are required to learn Ge’ez and services are still held in this ancient language. In the early hours of the morning, Ge’ez chants and melodies echo through the hills. Eerie, beautiful and sleep-challenging, especially during the high holidays.

With over 200 symbols, Ge’ez– a mesmerizing spaghetti of symbols to the uninitiated — now serves as the phonetic alphabet for Amharic, the official language of Ethiopia.

5. Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony

There’s nothing more disappointing than a coffee-producing country that does not actively consume and appreciate what it grows. No worry of this in Ethiopia: they not only grow the beans, but they also carry a proficiency in roasting, so much so that coffee roasting seems a rite of passage for young women across the country. Unsurprising considering that Ethiopia’s Kaffa region is where coffee is said to have originated.

Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony - Aksum, Ethiopia
Frankincense burning during an Ethiopian coffee ceremony.

The Ethiopian coffee ceremony is deliberate, a process that has been handed down through generations of Ethiopian women for centuries. It has an almost magical way of seeming to slow time, if not stop it altogether.

Coffee is central to Ethiopian life and pace. You’ll find coffee ceremonies taking place throughout the country in cafes, on street corners, in markets and most importantly in homes. Fronds and greens scattered on the ground, frankincense alight and in a pot, young green coffee beans roasting in a small pan over a charcoal stove, a delicate passing of water through the grounds until the ideal strength is achieved.

Coffee drinkers rejoice. All others, just behold.

6. Ethiopian Food

In our experience, Africa rarely garners an “Ooh, awesome food!” distinction. Ethiopian cuisine is an exception, one of the great cuisines of the world, I’d venture. In any event, it stands out against its neighbors with an array of rich and spicy stews.

Our Easter Feast, Ethiopia style. A soshabie (like a thali) to break the Ethiopian Orthodox 55-day Lenten fast. A mix of tasty stews served atop injera, a spongy sourdough flatbread. #yum via Instagram http://ift.tt/1r4SGQ8
Our Ethiopian Easter feast – injera covered in various meat and vegetarian stews.

Ask an Ethiopian the most important part of any meal and she’ll answer injera, the spongy, stretchy pancake-like flatbread made from fermented tef (a gluten-free grain indigenous to Ethiopia). Injera forms the foundation of every Ethiopian meal. You’ll often find a round of injera spread out like a natural platter atop which a variety of spicy stews made from lentils, meats and vegetables blended with spices blends like berbere (ground chilies mixed with upwards of 15-20 ingredients) are piled.
Making injera the traditional way over a fire.

Although the presentation and flavor hints of an Indian thali, the Ethiopian table is very much unto itself.

We’ll reserve further comment on Ethiopian cuisine for now, as we have written a comprehensive guide on it, from how to eat it to why you should consider a deep dive during the vegetarian fasting season or avail yourself of its raw beef specialties during the remainder of the year.

7. Traditional Music and Eskista Shoulder Dancing

Think “dancing in Africa” and you might appropriately imagine hips and butts moving and shaking in ways that blow the mind of those not of the continent. But in northern Ethiopia, the shoulders and upper body are the stars of the dancing show in something called eskista.

Traditional night clubs usually feature a group of professional dancers, but even better than those are the impromptu “dance offs” between two club-goers who try to out-shoulder one another. The beat, the energy, the atmosphere — all superbly infectious.

Even we got into the act.

Next up to make the leap from local music to the world stage: Ethiopian.

8. Kids, Kids

Our bus pulls off for a potty break in bushes or trees (a “bush stop” in local travel parlance) in what most might consider the middle of nowhere Ethiopia. Even here, the children appear out of the woodwork, from the hills up, the valleys down.

Where do all the children come from?! I won’t bore you with a lesson as to how those children are conceived, but population estimates in Ethiopia hover around 95 million, with projections topping 120 million in the next 15 years or so. Staggering.

Surrounded by Kids at a Road Stop in Ethiopia
As always, we attract a crowd at a roadside stop between Gondar and the Simien Mountains.

Note: Kids and pens? We have published another piece on the unfortunate practice of tourists indiscriminately giving pens and money to kids in developing countries — a practice that has slowly but surely “trained” them to beg.

9. Ethiopian Roads Overflow with Life

Much the world over, vehicles take first priority on the roads. Not so in Ethiopia.

Ethiopian Road Scenes, Camels and All
Ethiopia’s roads, often a condition between disorder and mayhem.

From village lanes to full-fledged highways, the Ethiopian road is ruled by a fog of people, animals (sheep, goats, cows, donkeys, camels), lean-tos, funerals, weddings and more. Cars and buses get out of the way of what was happening on the street, not the other way around.

If you remember the video game Frogger, this is the live version. One unfortunate result: road carnage. Heaps of tarp-draped remains of horrifying wrecks stand testament to a country coming to grips with the old ways of doing things converging with the unappreciated power of new vehicles on paved roads.

10. Market Days are Social Days

“Markets are not just for buying and selling. They perform an important social function. Most Ethiopians work in the fields, so market day is when people have a chance to meet, share news, and even find the person they will marry,” Fekadu, our guide, explained.

Debark Market Day - Ethiopia
Spices, roots and families at the Debark village market.

You can always tell market days in rural areas. For kilometers on end, roads are clogged even more so than usual with people from all neighboring villages carrying their goods to market – sheep, goats, wares, foodstuffs. It doesn’t matter how much or how little you have to sell: any and all are clearly welcome.

And they’re coming.

Ethiopian traditional markets are sprawling affairs with goods arranged accordingly: all the peppers here, all the green coffee beans there, homeopathic treatment for the cows somewhere in an open field in the distance.

Beyond the sale, these markets bind this primarily agrarian society. They provide an essential social focal point — not just for the trade of goods, but for the trade in life.

And in Ethiopia, there’s certainly no shortage of that.


Disclosure: Our tour in Ethiopia was provided to us by G Adventures in cooperation with its Wanderers in Residence program. As always, the opinions expressed here are entirely our own.


Our experiences above were from the G Adventures Ethiopia Highlights Tour. If you plan to book this or another tour with G Adventures, please consider starting the process by clicking on the ad below. The price stays the same to you and we earn a small commission. Thank you!

Africa Tours with G Adventures

The post Travel to Ethiopia: First Impressions appeared first on Uncornered Market.

http://uncorneredmarket.com/ethiopia-travel/feed/ 92 8.9806032 38.7577591