Baku, Old and New

Last Updated on April 17, 2018 by

Art-inspired Mosaics - Baku
Artistic impressions in Baku, Azerbaijan

Sometimes quotes are the best way to describe a place. Here are a few from our friend, Yahya, about Azerbaijan's capital Baku.

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The Lost Table: Armenian Food

Last Updated on December 6, 2019 by Audrey Scott

Searching hopelessly one night for what turned out to be a defunct traditional Armenian restaurant, we inquired with the locals in Yerevan regarding where we could find good traditional Armenian food. “There,” all fingers pointed in the direction of one of the handful of local kebab joints.

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Hiking in the Fabled Land of Svaneti, Republic of Georgia

Last Updated on February 4, 2023 by Audrey Scott

Trekking in Svaneti, an area the high Caucasus mountains of the Republic of Georgia, is so much more than just a physical experience. Yes, you are surrounded by stunning mountain landscapes and vistas. But the Svaneti trekking experience is one steeped in Svan culture, history, cuisine and all the people you meet along the. Here is our experience trekking from Mestia (Mulahi) to Ushguli in Svaneti.

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Tbilisi, Georgia: A Scavenger Hunt

Last Updated on January 15, 2020 by Audrey Scott

Some cities seem to exist in two dimensions, best taken in with a camera from afar. Not Tbilisi. Its turbulent history is a veritable bullet list of invasions, destructions, occupations, and reconstructions. As a result, it tends to reveal itself in layers, both architecturally and culturally. Labyrinthine and tactile, Tbilisi invites visitors to dig into it like urban archaeologists intent on determining its composition and its narrative.

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Visual Tour of the Caucasus

Last Updated on February 19, 2018 by Audrey Scott

Between embassy queues for visas, we've been taking advantage of Tashkent's surprising supply of wifi and internet cafes.

As a result, we finally have some photos to show from Armenia and Azerbaijan, thereby completing our visual tour of the Caucasus.

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Svaneti: Why and How To Go

Last Updated on December 17, 2019 by Audrey Scott

Svaneti, the high Caucasus mountain region in the northwestern corner of Georgia, has a long reputation of fierce independence characterized by the 12th century defensive towers that still dot many of its villages. More recently, Svaneti has been feared as outlaw territory where bandits and escaping terrorists from nearby Abkhazia, Chechnya and Ingushetia took refuge as locals holed up in their homes with guns at the ready.

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The Case of the Missing Parents

Last Updated on April 24, 2018 by Audrey Scott

While putting the finishing touches on our website, we spent a considerable amount of time at internet cafés in Tbilisi, Georgia. At one café, we noticed a semi-private room set up with couches, comfortable chairs and computers outfitted with webcams for video Skype calls. The typical configuration: children and grandmother crowded around the computer and Mommy or Daddy on the video screen. So, what's going on here?

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