The sounds of konpa, Haiti’s version of merengue meets jazz, floated from the kitchen to our spot on the front porch. We sat around a large wooden dining table, fleece jackets zipped up, our hands cupped around mugs of Haitian hot chocolate flavored with star anise, cinnamon, and Haitian bergamot lime rind. It was impossible not to be caught up in the unexpected … [Read more...]
Beginners Guides: Practical travel guides to regions, countries and cities.
Uganda Beyond the Gorillas: From Boda Boda to Bunyonyi
While mountain gorilla trekking is the big draw and anchor experience for many people visiting Uganda, the country offers a lot more in terms of atmosphere and experiences. Prior to our trip to Uganda, we’d heard from other travelers that the country was among their favorites in Africa due to its friendly people and laid-back feel. Beyond the critical human element, … [Read more...]
Romantic Rhine Travel: On and Off the Beaten Path
Through sunny days and fog, famous towns and little known ‘burgs, wine cellars and village vintner festivals, this was our time on the segment of the Rhine River known as the Romantic Rhine in Germany. Half-timbered homes sit as the foot of cobbled streets. Vineyard paths wind into the hills. And foggy moments as castles disappear and re-emerge on hilltops hint at … [Read more...]
Gorilla Trekking in Uganda: A Beginner’s Guide
I followed just behind our lead mountain gorilla tracker. In the hush of the moment under the canopy, I remembered our guide’s advice earlier that morning: “On your way to the gorillas, don’t forget to enjoy the sound of the jungle. There’s nothing like it.” My focus had been on climbing through the tendrils, on getting there. I could feel the heat around me, … [Read more...]
Ladakh Trekking: A Beginner’s Guide
Every year we try to go on a big trek, one that takes us far far away and high into the mountains. For us, it's not only a way to exercise our bodies, but to clear and challenge our minds. It’s a way to disconnect from all that is part of our daily life — technology, social media, blogging — and reconnect with nature and ourselves. Last year’s trek of the Markha … [Read more...]
Our Ireland Road Trip: Itinerary and Recommendations
When we originally announced our Ireland road trip, we hinted at disclosing all the details of our Ireland itinerary and recommendations. Here it is. All that's fit to print. … [Read more...]
Cape Town: Our Beginner’s Guide
Cape Town, a city we had heard so much about over the years, but for so many reasons never took the opportunity to visit – until recently. Like most, we were originally attracted to Cape Town for its natural beauty – think Table Mountain cut by coastlines – but we also knew there was more behind that exterior. … [Read more...]
72 hours in Edinburgh: Stone, Ale and Spirit
In celebration of Robert Burns Day in Scotland, we share our favorite pints, places, and provisions from the fair city of Edinburgh. Now, what did we miss? What’s the essence of Edinburgh? I probably need to return to answer that in earnest. But if you visit Edinburgh for a couple of days, here are a handful of things you could see, eat, drink and otherwise … [Read more...]
Vienna Travel: A Beginner’s Guide
This is the beginning of a multi-part series we’re calling “lost destinations” in which we highlight activities and destinations that we’ve experienced previously but haven’t written about extensively or enough apparently, for they surface often in conversation and in questions emailed to us by readers. Our first taste of Vienna came in late December 1998. We’d … [Read more...]
Berlin: A Beginner’s Guide
Traveling to Berlin? Here's our Berlin brainstorming guide to give you some approaches and ideas to get started. After spending three summers in a row in Berlin, we found ourselves moving there. Berlin draws us in, like the school kid who may not be the best looking in the class but has the magnetic personality that everyone wants to be around. Berlin for us is … [Read more...]